Lauren Smith – fashion gold

After Graduate Fashion Week in June, Lauren Smith was the name on everybody’s lips as the young Scottish designer walked away with the coveted George Gold award. After recently graduating from Edinburgh College of Art with a BA in Fashion, Smith is now set to complete an MA in Textiles back in Edinburgh.

Yesterday, Frost caught up with Smith while showcasing her collection at the Graduate Showcase for Vauxhall’s Fashion Scout.

The 3 pieces you have on show today were taken from your graduate collection, what were your inspirations behind this?

My collection has been heavily inspired by the work of Dieter Roth. Two of his collections, “Diaries” and “Work Tables” are specifically important. I am intrigued by what we leave behind i.e. our thoughts, workings and secrets. As seen in his collection “work tables”, Roth discovered that what was left behind on our desks etc was actually sometimes more interesting than the final works. The sketches, scribbles and notes left aside aren’t planned or organised and it is this aspect I wanted to bring into the garments.

 

Roland Mouret described your collection as ’emotional’ – do you find that your personality comes into play a lot when you’re designing?

I always like to make my work personal, I feel like it’s the best way to introduce myself and work to the industry. I am so pleased Roland Mouret picked up on it with my graduate collection!

 

What materials did you use for your collection? Were these easy enough to come-by or did you struggle to source them?

I used a number of materials in the collection including leather, cotton canvas and cotton panama. The main focus of my collection was the manipulation and embellishments and so the materials weren’t particularly complex.

 

You won gold at this year’s Graduate Fashion Week – congratulations! – what are your plans now?

I have just started my MA in Textiles at ECA and am really looking forward to exploring a combination of textiles and fashion.

 

Where do you want to take your designs in the future?

I haven’t got a set plan for the future but I want to keep exploring and creating work that combines fashion textiles and illustration.

Liz Black SS14

“Perceive / Deceive” – the title of Liz Black’s Spring Summer 2014 presentation. A title that evokes mystery and wonder and invites the audience to make their own perceptions of the collection (or so the show notes tell me).

When first entering Black’s presentation room, I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it; just two models stood still next to sharp white structures while mannequins were spread around the room wearing different pieces of the collection; at the end of the room, a projector shone onto a white wall revealing snippets of models showing off looks from behind a screen – not something I’d experienced before. But then that’s the beauty of presentations – it’s a chance for designers to showcase their hard work in an environment that a runway might not allow, a chance to create an entirely new conceptual experience.

Going back to the title, Black’s collection was inspired by the optical artist Jesus Rafael Soto and the conceptual world of Venezuelan Kinetic “where you are invited to form your own personal perception of colour, line and touch”. Using these inspirations, Black created geometrical looks using bold colours of cobalt blue, greens and greys on structured materials with strong silhouettes.

Stand out pieces included an all-blue shorts and leather jacket suit with hair wildly quiffed at the front with a flash of cobalt blue smeared across the eyes. However, the most intriguing looks on show were structured dresses with black and white striped panels and flashes of either blue or yellow with 3D scaffolding-like structures.

The geometric features within the collection along with the sharp architectural setting of the room worked together to create the perfect showcase of Black’s optical concepts and inspirations. Although a little mystifying at first, I can’t help but feel that Black’s choice of presentation suited her collection perfectly, as a catwalk just wouldn’t have done it justice. For this collection, context was everything.

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Eugene Lin SS14

eugene lin ss14

Taking a step-back from his loud digital prints from last season, Eugene Lin has focussed his latest collection on clean, structured pattern-cutting with inspiration being drawn from Valkyries of Norse mythology.

A runway show full of pure whites, loud colour pops and immaculate pattern-cutting, Lin’s showcase was a complete set of outfits that anyone could pull straight from the catwalk and make their own. From neat high-waisted trousers and mid-length skirts to structured strapless dresses and a precision-cut orange jacket worn with nothing underneath, each piece spoke for itself.

But while the whole collection was stunning, a few pieces really stole the show. The first look to appear from behind the white walls at the Fashion Scout hall was a stunning crisp white t-shirt and pleated mini skirt combination; clean, elegant and chic. While a more vibrant pumpkin orange shift dress with structured, boxy skirt and side pockets on precision cut fabric took the dress to a whole new level of sophistication. However, more detailed pieces were sent down the runway in the form of sharp black jackets and trouser suits featuring feather prints which were inspired by the wings of a Valkyrie – female spirits of battle who could transform into swans.

This season Lin presented a showcase of deluxe ready-to-wear pieces that would make any woman proud to adorn; he is going from strength to strength and we love his direction.

(Image: Yahoo.com)

Runway Rundown: Autumn/ Winter 2013

An unexpected feature that was prominent on many runways this February was colour. It seems that this Autumn/ Winter will be brighter than it has been in a long time and who’s complaining? But don’t worry, designers haven’t ditched the typical dark and moody for the later months as black also made a strong statement. To give you a taster of what’s to come, here is a rundown of some of the shows that Frost attended this season.

KTZ

KTZ
With black and white making a strong statement, some of the looks on the KTZ runway looked like something between high school preppy and a character from The Crucible. White collared shirts were worn under black pinafore dresses and some of the models legs were wrapped in skin-tight patent black tights giving the basic look a little edge. The show notes told us that the collection was inspired by witch craft and tarot cards which was made evident by the massive snap-backs with moon sized visors and tarot printed garments. Even though some of the collection was a little wacky, there was something very wearable about all of the pieces which made the show an even bigger success. All in all, a dark palette with a surprising splash of colour in either red or burnt orange.

Jena Theo

Jena.Theo
Held in the small space of the Portico Rooms at Somerset House, the Jena.Theo show was a very intimate showcase of a completely brilliant collection. A surprising feature was the use of colour and print with black only being featured in a couple of the looks. A strong feature throughout the collection were high necks on dresses and kitted jumpers giving a real sixties vibe to some of the looks. Given that the show invitation was emblazoned with an acid spray painted smiley face, it was unsurprising to see the print on some of the dresses and t-shirts. The cerise pink colour of the invitation was also a prominent feature on long sleeved shift dresses and jumpers. With each piece being just as beautiful as the next, this collection is definitely one that would look good in all wardrobes.

Kukhareva

Ekaterina Khukareva
Inspired by retro housewives, Khukareva’s collection for this winter was nothing short of fabulous. The rich textures and decorative patterns were real eye-catchers on the mid-length skirts and cigarette trousers which, to be completely honest, are not given justice in the photographs online. These designs have got to be seen in person to appreciate the deep colours in her signature knit lana wool and viscose. And if the clothes didn’t say enough, the hair definitely did. Pinned up in massive curlers, thanks to the design talents of Lara Jensen, the height and size of the hair worked perfectly with the body con dresses and flowing skirts. This collection was a definite favourite.

Eudon Choi

Eudon Choi
The autumn/ winter Eudon Choi show was a complete spectacle of all things folk. Complete with a Russian string quartet, velvet room dividers and orchids, the Portico Rooms was transformed to play host to his beautifully dressed Babushka doll inspired models. A-line skirts, thick woollen statement coats and bell-bottom trousers came in an array of electric blue, baby pinks, red and black and were paired with head pieces decorated with bright flowers and pom-poms. In terms of beauty, the models were fresh and dewy faced with blushed cheeks and nude lips; a look that paired perfectly with the exaggerated colours and textures of the clothes. The polished and feminine look of the collection was a first for Choi but one that went down very well with the audience.

Yifang Wan

Yifang Wan
Merit Award winner Yifang Wan show cased her collection in the Freemason’s Hall during Fashion Scout’s runway this February to a great reception. The concept of the physical and mental restraints of the human body behind the collection was great to read about in the show notes and one that created the perfect match of garments and accessories. Her choice of metal structured accessories worn as bracelets, belts and even held in the hand or over the shoulder that paid homage to her inspirations of discipline and control were not only striking but completely thought provoking. They stood out against the backdrop of the dark palettes of indigo, black, emerald and dark violet on perfectly structured silhouettes. Thick wool coats worn over dresses and tailored trousers were the perfect minimalistic pieces needed to let such strong influences shine through.

[Images courtesy of Google Images]

Zoe Jordan Womenswear A/W 2013

With her fifth collection being given the honor to open London Fashion Week, Zoe Jordan produced an incredible show. With clean cut lines and sharp silhouettes, it’s easy to see where her inspirations, and title of the collection, came from.

‘Foundations’ paid homage to Jordan’s architectural background where she showcased cigarette trousers against tailored boyfriend jackets and pale shift dresses. With textures from croc effect to leather, Jordan presented to us her take on the minimalist trend but adding a little bit extra.

With a mainly monochrome palette, the aim was to let the shapes and textures speak for themselves. However we were treated with a flash of colour in either amber or shocking hot pink in the form of jumpers, skirts and trousers hidden under sweeping houndstooth jackets. The collection was a great example of how keeping things minimal can still be interesting.

Along with her ‘boyish elegance’ Jordan also showed her feminine side through her corseted dresses in metallic jacquard snake print. Shift dresses came in both sleeveless and turtle neck forms and were paired with ankle boots to keep in with the structural vibe. Black and white plaid skirts also made an appearance along with a jumper and trouser combination in houndstooth.

Along with the textures, Jordan also worked with tailoring and sharp shoulders due to the inspiration of bold structural shapes and images. A muted palette and only occasional print meant the shape and fit were showcased to maximum potential.

One of the most particular points about the collection was the colour block panels and individual stand out pieces. According to the show notes “separates are the cornerstones of the Autumn/Winter 2013 aesthetic” and if the bright orange ankle boots are anything to go by, they certainly are.

 

ShopStyle reveals a surprising winner in the party fashion stakes – the humble onesie for men

 

Maybe it’s the arctic weather, but this season it seems we’re snuggling up on the sofa in an oversized onesie rather than out partying. Of the fashion terms searched for by men and women in the last month, the UK’s no 1 fashion shopping site ShopStyle.co.uk has revealed that the humble ‘onesie for men’ was the most searched for term, coming in above traditional party clothes ‘sequin dresses’ and ‘faux fur coats’.

 

But the good news is it seems we haven’t dumped the glamour for comfort completely. Of the fashion terms searched for by men and women, ‘sequin dress’ came third, with the enduring fashion classic, the maxi dress fifth, and over-the-knee boots in tenth. Lace proved to continue to be a popular trend, with lace dresses in at numbers eight and nine.

 

Joanna Wells, editorial director for ShopStyle commented: “Like it or not, this has been the year of the onesie with everyone from Rihanna to Rylan from the X Factor sporting the casual and cosy look. At this time of year we’d usually expect to see a sparkly party dress as the number one most searched-for item; but it seems the more elegant Kate Middleton look is still popular with lace dresses coming in the top ten.”

 

Top 10 most searched-for fashion terms during November and December 2012:

 

  1. Onesie for men

 

  1. Onesies for women
  1. Sequin dress
  1. Parka
  1. Maxi dress
  1. Faux fur coats
  1. Lace dress
  1. Black lace dress
  1. Red dress
  1. Over the knee boots

 

Dress for Success Celebrity Online Auction on VestiaireCollective.com

Frost Loves that Rachel Weisz, Davina McCall, Trinny Woodall, Sophie Dahl, Jasmine Guinness and Bay Garnett donate treasured pieces from their wardrobes to women’s charity Dress for Success with an exclusive online auction on Vestiaire Collective starting on December 21st

 

This Christmas, UK A-list celebrities Rachel Weisz, Davina McCall, Trinny Woodall, Sophie Dahl, Jasmine Guinness and super-stylist Bay Garnett are offering the opportunity to buy coveted designer pieces from their own personal collections. The celebrities are partnering with online fashion retailer VestiaireCollective.com, the destination online store for pre-loved high-end designer fashion and the platform to sell and update your wardrobe, with all proceeds from sales going to the charity, Dress for Success.

 

From the 21st December to the 31st of December, visitors to Vestiaire Collective will have the opportunity to buy one amazing item per day  – with a new item becoming available for sale each day. Details of which items are available for purchase each day and at what time, will be available on the Vestiaire Collective site.

 

Proceeds from the sale will go entirely to Dress for Success – the charity that helps women on low incomes get back into employment and become financially independent. Dress for Success provide interview clothes and interview training to help women feel more confident and start to believe in their own ability to succeed and move on with their lives. One in two of the women the charity helps, gets the job.

 

Among the items being auctioned are Bay Garnett’s Joseph leopard fur wrap, Jasmine Guinness’ vintage leopard-print jacket, YSL heels from Trinny Woodall and a custom-made leather jacket, designed by Michelle Banarse for Davina McCall.

 

Whether you are a celebrity, a Vestiaire Collective community member or a client of Dress for Success, the confidence and self-esteem gained from smart clothing is something we are unified in understanding’ said Shannon Edwards, Managing Director, Vestiaire Collective UK. ‘We are grateful to our Style Advisor Bay Garnett for bringing together an inspiring group of women donating to our charitable partner, Dress for Success London’

 

‘In my years as a stylist I’ve seen the transformative impact of clothing on the self-esteem of even the most confident women in the world’, said stylist and Vestiaire Collective style advisor Bay Garnett, ‘so to be able to support an organisation that provides this type of head start to women in need is a great reward.’

 

For the opportunity to purchase one of these unique one-off pieces please log on to Vestiaire Collective on the 21st December to check out the sale www.vestiairecollective.com

 

Buyers will have until the 31st December to purchase a celebrity item and support a worthwhile cause – but you’ll need to be quick as there’s only one piece per day! With the New Year approaching we hope to help those looking for new opportunities to change their lives.

 

www.dressforsuccess.org.uk