With the children at school Alex and her husband have a chance to go tourist.

Mr P is on gardening leave. Which since we, the kids and I, have not even been here a year is a little alarming but we have been through worse so we’ll get through this. So before his new job takes him off again and in the spirit of making the best of things, we decided to explore beyond Bangkok. After all two month’s in one another’s company is a long time, so better we do these things before we are fed up with one another.

I had always wanted to go to Ayutthaya – the second of the two original ancient capitals of Siam and heralded as the Angkor Wat of Thailand. Thankfully Mr P agreed. We dropped the kids off at school and headed out of the city, noses in our iPhones clearing emails, returning messages and playing Candy Crush. Ok Candy Crush, that was just me. I like to make use of the exquisite privilege of being driven everywhere by using my time wisely. Gawd forbid we might strike up a convo and run out of things to chat about by mid morning.

 

We arrived at the Unesco World Heritage site early before the mini vans and tourist coaches but failed to secure the bikes we had dreamt of. Never mind. The site didn’t look that big and there’s nothing wrong with our legs. So off we set. Within minutes we had come across the famed Buddha in the tree roots. ‘Great,’ announces Mr P, ‘We can go home now.’ He’s not the best tourist. Sightseeing is not his bag. He once described Petra as ‘cr*p’. It was shaping up to be a long day and it was barely 9:15.

 

I want to say ‘and it did not disappoint’, except it did a little. Wat Maha That is stunning without question. And one can not help to marvel at the skill of the ancients who built the complex but it somehow just did not have the majesty and splendor of Angkor.

 

 

We wandered through the historical gardens and over the road to other ruined temples and buildings which were not open. I pondered on the irony of some of these ancient ruins amidst modern day Ayutthaya as many of them are. Again something different from Angkor – or it certainly was more than a decade ago when I visited it. In Angkor you feel like you have stumbled across something magical, in Ayutthaya it feels like the ruins are struggling to compete with the pace of modern living. Although I had to smile at all the bike helmets left on the wall of one ruin as chickens clucked in nearby pens and the drivers swung in hammocks hung between the trees. 

 

We crossed the road briefly stumbling across the paths of elephants carrying a hoard of Chinese tourists around the periphery of the gardens. The mahouts did not take kindly to Mr P patting the elephant’s trunks, oblivious to this being our first ‘official’ elephant experience so far on our Thailand adventure. I suspect these are not the ethical elephants we dream about introducing the kids to at some point. 

 

We discovered a modern temple where a recently renovated Buddha resides, one of the largest in Thailand and one the Queen herself has helped restore to its former glory. In the gardens surrounding the temple the bushes were shaped like elephants – probably more ethical to be honest than those up the road. The Ancient Palace and Wat Phra Si Samphet nearby were more impressive. A little off the beaten track, they had more charm somehow. 

 

By now it was time for lunch and we settled on a quaint restaurant over looking the river where we both inhaled a Singha and enjoyed a delicious meal. 

 

Afterwards we drove out to Wat Chaiwatthanaram over the river. I loved this set of ruins. Here there was a majesty and splendor as we explored the cloisters and the decapitated Buddhas that surround it. It was here that I took a quiet moment of solitude in front of the huge restored Buddhas that overlook the river surrounding this island of ancient temples, monasteries, palaces and statues destroyed by the Burmese in 1757. And here that I realized that none of it disappointed. I had arrived with expectations and they had disappointed. The temples and palaces, statues and stupas were all splendid and don’t deserve to be compared to Angkor which I fear in the intervening years since my first visit has possibly lost some of it’s magic as chain hotels creep into its being.

And I remembered why I love Thailand. I love places that are not completely touristy (it was midweek and still blissfully quiet) and still retain a rustic charm. I love that real life juxtaposes right next to stunning temples and glorious ruins, that everyday people, often on the brink of extreme poverty, live right next door to these fabulous and stunning spiritual reminders. I hope they find it as spiritually uplifting as I do. 

 

Looking at the map of Ayutthaya I realized we barely scratched the surface of all the ruins. But I did the same in Angkor. Once can get a little templed out. It doesn’t mean the memories aren’t vivid and wonderful. And I have no doubt our memories of this day will be the same because in the end it did not disappoint. And we didn’t run out of conversation either.