November in Salema, Portugal – a Good Idea? By Jan Speedie

I was invited to visit friends who live in Salema in the Algarve, Portugal, in November . It seemed like a great idea, but what’s a girl to pack? Is it cold, hot, or what?  And would it be a modern complex miles from anywhere or something that dreams are made of?

Dreams won out, and ‘warm’ was the order of the week. Salema is a fishing village situated on the coast of the western Algarve. As you drive/walk down the steep hill to the cobbled square in the centre of the village you pass doorways hung with bougainvillea, making a brilliant splash of colour.

pic bougainvillea

Once there, the day must start with a coffee and a pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tart) while you take in your surroundings, and people watch.  The fishing boats still go out daily to supply the local restaurants with fresh fish.  The narrow cobbled street Rue de Pescadores winds up through the old part of Salema.   A great many villa and apartments have been built but most are empty and unfinished waiting for new owner when the European economy revives.

Now that the long hot summer is over and the holiday makers have returned home, the village settles down for a period of rest and recuperation after the long exhausting season.

November brings moments of much needed rain that softens the sun parched ground and nature comes to life again. It actually feels ‘spring like’ with the almond trees in blossom.

almondblossom

The gardens of the houses and villas are coming to life again. The long sandy beach has lost its sun loungers and umbrellas but the Atlantic waves roll in for the waiting surfers to enjoy, clad in their wet suits.

surfers

November is when the Medronho berries ripen. Medronho trees grow wild on the poor soil of the Algarve and the berries are collected by farmers to process by hand into a drink known as ‘firewater’ because of the hot sensation felt in the throat when drunk. Aquardent de Medronhos (firewater) is very popular with farmers and fishermen and often drunk for breakfast to ‘waken the spirits’.  I’ll stick with a coffee, please.

medronho

Salema is situated on the edge of the Parque Natural which extends down to Cape St Vincent. This nature reserve is designed to protect the outstanding beauty of the coastline, the wildlife and the region’s unique flora and fauna. The whole area is rich in history with remnants of Roman and Phoenician settlements.

If after a few days at a gentle pace of life you feel the need to see modern life again the large town of Lagos is only 20 minutes drive away with its shops, bars, restaurants and marina.

sunset

Yes, Salema is indeed the place of, and for, dreams.

 

 

Top five active ways to enjoy winter sun in the western Algarve

UK holidaymakers planning for a warm long weekend should look no further than the western Algarve this winter. With average temperatures of 19-22 degrees Celsius (66-72 Fahrenheit), quieter beaches and coastal walks, visitors can get to grips with the real Algarve away from the summer’s tourist season.

Cycle

Rugged landscape and crystal clear waters define the Algarve away from the golf courses. The head winds often mean challenging cycling but it will reap rewards. Many hotels have on-site bikes for use by guests, although you can also visit Algarve Bike Hire, which rents bikes out for up to 15 days, with the lowest-spec bike available for 10 euro per day, or 90 euro for the full 15. Child seats are available, all equipment, including helmets, can be delivered to your hotel for free if based between Albufeira and Carvoeiro. Cycle the rewarding 10km route west along the coastal road from Carvoeiro to the village of Ferragudo, packed with small restaurants serving fresh fish overlooking its golden beach.

Surf

The Atlantic coast provides consistent waves for surfing, with the best spots found to the west of the Algarve, where plenty of established surfing schools hold expert knowledge of the secluded beaches and perfect waves for beginners. The Algarve Watersport School offers a ‘Surfari’ daytrip which picks up learners from their hotel if in a group of four or more. Prices and dates depend on location, but pickups include Lagos, Carvoeiro and Portimao and prices start at 55 euro.

Ride

The warm Autumnal weather provides good horse riding conditions and spectacular views of the rolling western Algarve terrain. There are a number of riding schools that cater for beginners through to experienced riders. Tiffany’s Riding School, located 7km west of the town of Lagos, provides a three-hour Adventure Tour (140 euro per person) against the backdrop of the Monchique Mountains, well-known for their abundance of pine and eucalyptus trees. Quinta da Bica riding school, located 16km from the medieval town of Silves, provides private, 30 minute riding lessons for 20 euro. The school also has quad biking treks for those more interested in four-wheeled fun.

Kayak

As a low impact but high return exercise, Kayaking is a gentle activity for both children and adults that provides access to little-known inlets and coves teeming with wildlife along the Algarve coast. Algarve Kayak Tours and The Kayak Centre take participants aged seven and upwards on two – three hour kayak tours departing from Lagos beach. Discover the colourful rock formations known as the “Algarves”, the famous grottos and caves of Ponta da Piedade or the Alvor laguna. Places available from 20 euro.

Golf

With access to a myriad of golf courses, visitors to the Algarve can be sure they will never be located too far from somewhere to tee off. Late autumn through to late spring is the peak season for golfers in the Algarve, largely due to the warm weather on offer minus the sweltering sun. Great deals can be found, and often the courses will remain quiet, provided you choose wisely. The western Algarve tends to be quieter, Carvoeiro is home to three golf courses, Vale de Milho is more informal, charging 30 euro green fee and is suited to beginners requiring only knowledge of golfing etiquette. The Gramacho and Pinta, 18 hole courses within 3 kilometres of Carvoeiro, accommodate holidaying golfers for approximately 90 euro per round.

Use Vale d’Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa as your base

Stay at the luxury 5* Vale d’Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa, five minutes from Carvoeiro and a 40 minute transfer from Faro airport and use it as your base to enjoy an active outdoor break. The resort offers self-catering apartments alongside its hotel, ensuring it can adapt to all holiday requirements.

Set within 20 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, the resort offers all the facilities expected in a 5* environment. Relax in the resort spa with a vast range of beauty and wellbeing treatments and a steam bath, or get active with the two tennis courts, two outdoor swimming pools (one for adults, one for children) and a Health Club featuring a heated indoor pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and gymnasium.

The resort comprises of 80 spacious one and two-bedroom family suites, 2 suites and 22 elegant hotel rooms, equipped with high standard quality, all at your disposal to make sure your holidays in Carvoeiro will be unforgettable.

Activities at Vale d’Oliveiras Quinta Resort & Spa include the Cycling Social Ride, every Saturday at 11:00, groups up to 10, can enjoy a leisurely bike ride to Ferragudo free of charge. Guests can also participate in a Canoeing Expedition at the nearby Adrade river side spot of Fontes de Estombar, every Saturday at high tide, for 20 euros per person.