Another week of back to back diverse but delightful experiences by Alex Bannard – Bangkok correspondent

Posted on May 31, 2016 by Margaret Graham

When we came to Bangkok I really thought I would achieve so much. Nine months in I realize if you achieve one thing a day you are doing well. So when I have a week of back to back opportunities in which to experience the weird and the wonderful of Bangkok, I utterly relish it.

It all started with 2 nights retreat on the river in Amphawa – home of the original authentic floating market and many a temple. It was literally sunset yoga on the river; merit-making with monks in boats at sunrise, a completely beautifully serene and peaceful way to start the day; post-merits yoga on the pontoon on the river; spa treatments including acupuncture, a needle literally inserted in my third eye, hot herbal bath, probably my first and last bath in Thailand because it was SO hot and a Thai massage.

Later, a soaking in fizz, closely followed by a drenching in river water (in my remaining clean outfit so I travelled home smelling like a Thai drain puddle) and some rather spectacular firefly demonstrations on the river bank. The trees were lit up like Christmas trees. And a finale of sunrise om floating on the river and reiki. The whole experience was complete zen.

On returning home it was a back to back birthday extravaganza…first a 5 year old’s birthday welcomed us back to our Moobaan, more fizz, more fun, no soakings. Then my birthday: kids made fabulous cards and Mr P excelled himself on the present front; brunch with my BKK-Bessie’s and another amaze-balls gift; rooftop bar drinks with Mr P and a delish Indian tandoori dinner…lots of time to reflect that getting older is really getting more fun.

The following day my friend, Meghan and I headed off to Chinatown on the hunt for fabric. Despite better and wiser advise, that the last Friday before the Thai schools went back was a bad day to go, off we set. Bts, tuk tuk & taxi with intermittent footwork and we arrived in Little India. We were scouting through the rolls of fabric before 11am in Indian Emporium – a result in itself. Made a purchase: some cool linens for 100bht/m. Next stall…linen 50bht/m…fatal school girl error. Much friendlier proprietors so to compensate I went mad on a colour palette reminiscent of the river: khaki, slate, Air Force blue, ocra…I do love colour but my skin tone suits, well pond water shades.

On Saturday one of my 4 birthday twins invited me to a Grease night to celebrate her 40th. Once I realized the Mr’s weren’t invited it was game on for me. 50’s skirts and fitted tops were sourced. A pink wig was secured. I was good to go.

What a night. Slick smooth and stylish it was not. Fun, raucous and silly it most definitely was. We laughed, sang loudly, danced hysterically and it was fabulous. Never in a million years had I even anticipated the previous, as our look see in Bangkok came to an end, that a year later my birthday week would be ending like this. And I think that unpredictability is what I love most about Bangkok. Anything is possible and anything goes.

Afterwards we went to Titanium. I was totally expecting a mega club, but instead it is a small bar with a live band. We looked rather like a hen do, all dressed same and so unfortunately attracted attention in that vein. I had to keep myself in check as there were more than a few fat ugly Farang with their trophy Thai gals, a side to Thailand that challenges my non-judgemental yoga principles and my face muscles – I am completely transparent and you can tell exactly how I am feeling by the look on my face. The all girl live band were awesome. The bonkers Ozzie and his scary ‘tash, not so much. But we danced some more, drank some more and laughed a lot more. Then I journeyed all the way home, itchy ghastly wig still in situ if not a little wonky, with possibly the jolliest taxi driver ever – a real life happy Buddha.

And that’s how life is sometimes in Bangkok. Back to back experiences, sense overload, a fun-fest. And I love it, I absolutely love that life flits between the sublime and the ridiculous so effortlessly!and so regularly.

The Golden Mount & Baan Bat by Alex Bannard | Bangkok Correspondent

Posted on May 30, 2016 by Margaret Graham

I was delighted, soon after arriving in Bangkok, to meet a fabulous and inspiring neighbour who is a practicing Buddhist. This is a philosophy I have enormous respect for and a fascinated interest in, but she was also planning on starting a meditation course which had been on my Bangkok bucket list from the start.

Being a huge fan of yoga and mindfulness I was intrigued to learn the spiritual art of real life Buddhist meditation. As our guru has the most enchanting French accent, I felt that if it all proved a bit much, her voice would be like a meditation on its own.

She suggested we visit the area where the monks’ alms bowls are made. I am a traveller at heart and have backpacked clutching my Lonely Planet many times. I was all in.

We took the water taxi for Bang Sapi pier near our Moobaan. This is an adventure in itself. For 20bht we went all the way from Bang Sapi up to the temple at the Golden Mount, Wat Saket, changing only once. I love the people watching opportunities this kind of adventure affords.

The boat was packed, yet at every stop as people disembarked, yet more people embarked. The only person wearing a lift jacket, predictably was the girl taking the money and dispensing the tickets – you must protect the assets after all. The sights of local people living their lives alongside the river were extraordinary and the smells were…well it’s Bangkok I don’t need to elaborate. I loved it.

When we got to Wat Saket as it was Loi Krathong week, there was a fun fair and collection of stalls. This happens every year and there is a wonderful carnival energy surrounding the streets. The temple sits on a small man made hill up 300 steps which circle the mount, revealing fabulous views of the city.

The Mount itself during Loi Krathong is shrouded in red cloth and is a popular pilgrimage for local people who write on the cloth. I wrote a message for a friend who badly needed better karma…I hope it worked.

After some time at the top soaking in the atmosphere and appreciating seeing the city from above, we headed off to Baan Bat. Almost all Buddhist monks have alms bowls and begin the day collecting offerings from the local community, a custom that dates back 2,500 years. Nowadays almost all the bowls are manufactured but there remains in the alleys surrounding The Golden Mount, one last soi dedicated to the ancient art of alms bowl making.

The bowls are hand made by battering steel into shape and decorating it and the community remains and functions in exactly the same place, albeit in a slightly different fashion (I did see a surprising number of tablets of the electronic variety keeping the children entertained) and in much smaller numbers.

Over the years a thriving industry has been reduced leaving just one family making the traditional bowls although the surrounding area still functions in some way to support the monks with various temple supply shops. The whole area is worth exploring and like everywhere in Thailand the people are welcoming and friendly.

Before long it was time to return to the water taxi and head home for pick up, alms bowl under arm after some nifty bargaining. I should donate it to the faithful monks but I like it too much.

My Bangkok Life – Loi Krathong by Alex Bannard our Bangkok correspondent

Posted on May 26, 2016 by Margaret Graham

I have lived in Bangkok with our family since the beginning of August. We arrived 6 months after my husband had started his new job here, after selling the house & finishing off the school year. We fell in love with it immediately, by far our best expat posting to date: lovely people, delicious food, fabulous weather, wonderful new friends, great community both at school & on the moobaan, interesting culture, I mean, what’s not to love?

One of my favourite evenings so far (& we have packed in a lot of fun nights already…but that’s another story) has got to be Loi Krathong. Loi Krathong is celebrated on the full moon of the 12^th lunar month in the Thai luna calendar – this year it will be November 15^th. The festival, one of the most popular in Thailand, celebrates the water spirits & basically means to float a basket.

Baskets are traditionally made out of banana tree trunks or spider lily plants & elaborately decorated with folded banana leaves, flowers, incense & a candle which are lit & floated on a river or lake as wishes are made.

The kids were allowed to dress up for school. I was so excited for my 4 year old daughter, having the chance to wear one of the beautiful intricate Thai costumes. She had other plans: she wanted to be a Disney Princess. I explained patiently numerous times that it wasn’t fancy dress it was Loi Krathong & we had to wear traditional Thai costumes. Eventually I managed to persuade them both to wear t-shirts from Chatchuk market & as I was reading in my daughter’s class that day I also got dressed up much to the teacher’s surprise.

Our moobaan annually hosts a Loi Krathong party. All around the pool were street-style food stalls offering an delectable array of Thai treats: Pad Thai, chicken satay, fish soup, green curry, pork on a stick, you name it, it was there. The pool was decorated with lights & both Thai & expat families mingled to enjoy the festivities. It was fabulous.

The kids couldn’t wait to light their Krathongs, which were being floated on the baby pool in lieu of a more natural water feature. My daughter had changed into her maxi dress dismissing my objections with ‘it IS a party, Mummy’. Before I knew it, she had thrown off her dress & was cavorting around in the baby pool in her knickers. She was having a ball but her resultant Tsunami waves were capsizing or drenching all the Krathongs. As incense & candles fizzled out, her little face glowed in the pool lights with pure delight. I was horrified, goodness knows what that has done to our karma for 2016.

Surreal? Probably, but it’s my life Alex Bannard – Bangkok correspondent

Posted on May 3, 2016 by Margaret Graham

Being an expat affords some amazing experiences, luxuries and some frustrations. In a previous expat life I had friends who described it as ‘not real life’ – it is real, it’s our life right now, surreal though it might sometimes be.

Take a typical moment in time in Bangkok. I was invited to join a friend in her first ante-natal appointment for her fourth pregnancy. Hubby felt his role was done so it was my privilege to share a wonderful moment with her and to have some fun too. Afterwards we were waiting outside for a taxi to go to lunch. I say waiting, we actually got proactive and went straight to the area where they are dropping off to pick one up.

‘We were met with, ‘No madam you go get number, please’.

There’s a system. Wow.

We went to the taxi desk & got number 49. There are many people milling around and obviously we don’t expect to get in the first taxi. Several minutes later a lady with number 52 clutched in her palm was clearly edging to the front of the ‘queue’…there is no queue just a mass of people.

I don’t really like pointless rules but if there is a system, queue or not – you wait your turn lady or I will take you down. I’m British after all, and we invented the queue.

Realizing we probably needed to register with Clipboard-lady I told her our destination & she wrote it next to 49. We’re back in the game. Number 52 can wait in line.

After many more minutes it became apparent that the system is not a system.

Clipboard-lady approached the next available taxi and gave him a range of options on which location he wanted next, which often he declined & drove off. Oh for goodness sake -it’s 37 degrees humid as a Chinese Laundry we’ve be waiting for almost 1/2 hour, my friend is in wedges and I am watching my long awaited Dean & Delucalunch disappear up the ‘system’.

So I took things into my own hands & walked down the line and asked a taxi way back in the taxi queue if he will take us to Emporium. ‘Madam, number?’ he said.

I replied, ‘We have a number but there is seriously no system. Taxi just choose where he wants to go. You want to go to Emporium?’

‘Ok but 100bht’

‘Done.’ We jumped in with our laminated 49 (stick that in your ‘system’) and drive off.

The traffic is horrible. We pass a Dean & Deluca and get stuck in a nose to tail traffic, so I hand him his 100bht & say ‘Kap kun ka we get out here.’

‘No madam. Just round corner.’ He replies.

‘Oh ok’

Finally we pull up at…Central Embassy. Not quite where we wanted to be.

Yep, surreal it is. But we love it.

How To Travel The World Without Selling Your Possessions

Posted on April 20, 2016 by Frostie

The date you board the plane, and jet off to the first destination on your world tour, is getting closer! Whilst sitting at your desk, saving up the final pennies to put towards your adventure, you are daydreaming of sitting on a beach in the sun but are actually looking out the window on a drizzly Monday afternoon.

But, as you wish away the time until you touch down in paradise, there are a few very important things you need to sort out – particularly what you are going to do with all your possessions! Perhaps you have already sold some to put towards your travel fund and maybe the situation has encouraged you to have a major clear out. But, there will still be many things that you want to come back to in a year or two, when your travels come to an end and it is back to reality.

So, here are a few ways that you can travel the world without having to sell all your possessions:

1.Rent out your home – furnished

If you are lucky enough to own your own home, then leave all your possessions there and rent it out Posted in Life & Style, Travel | Tagged How To Travel The World Without Selling Your Possessions, possessions, travel, traveling, what to do with your stuff

My Bangkok Nature Challenge by Alex Bannard – Thailand correspondent

Posted on April 8, 2016 by Margaret Graham

Challenged by a friend on Facebook to photograph something natural and post it everyday for a week turned into a beautiful journey.

Recently I was tagged on Facebook to complete a nature challenge and I was filled with dread. We all know the feeling – one’s to do list already seems over-burdened or the challenge seems simply not possible. It’s almost like the 21st century chain-letter – if you don’t forward to 20 people within an hour your life will implode, you will grow an extra nose and you certainly won’t ever attain riches beyond your wildest dreams.

OK so I over-exaggerate a little but this photo challenge involved posting daily for a week a photograph of nature and nominating one of your friends daily to accept the same gauntlet. I balked. And procrastinated and thought ‘But I live in a city’ and dreaded burdening other friends and and and…

Well, of course I did the ostrich thing for three days and eventually ventured out with the dog for her morning walk around our Moobaan, armed with my phone. I don’t usually take my phone as I believe the walk is more mindful without it. I focus on the bird sounds (the for-real bird, the one who squawks ‘for-real-for-real’) and try to allow my thoughts to drift across my mind like clouds in the blue sky. And all of that dippy hippy stuff.

It was a revelation: I discovered beautiful flowers hanging from trees, bushes or in potted plants. I absolutely love the frangipani flower which we all regularly see on the ground in Thailand and decorating our plates but this time I noticed some that hadn’t quite opened in the morning sun’s warmth. But the frangipani wasn’t the only one, because I realised that there are many other spectacularly beautiful flowers if only one looks.

My friend’s housekeeper later told me that one bloom is collected by the locals to cook in oyster sauce, and that’s obviously what the stout old lady was doing one morning as her maid obediently following behind carrying handfuls of these flowers.

I looked more closely at the bark of the trees the dog sniffs around every day. I noticed the different textures in the different grasses at our feet. I looked upwards and discovered papayas, pomegranates and bananas hanging off neighbour’s trees.

I am sure the security and gardeners wondered what that mad Farang was doing, one foot on the dog’s lead, kneeling down with her phone trying to get the perfect shot of a dead flower on the ground. To be honest I didn’t care because I was in that all important flow state where time flies by and nothing else matters other than what you are doing. Kids are naturally in this state and it is somehow conditioned out of us as we grow up but it is so therapeutic and extremely good for you.

But best of all I was totally mindful of my surroundings, seeing things I hadn’t noticed before and appreciating once again how very lucky we are to live in this vibrant, bustling, busy city of Bangkok. You just have to open your eyes and slow down to appreciate its nature and beauty and I realised then I can never have enough of frangipani.

So thank you for the challenge, and I hope those I nominated also found it to be a time of similar revelation and calm.

And another lesson…if I had allowed my initial reaction to this challenge to dominate I would never have experienced these revelations and therein lies another revelation: don’t judge, stay curious and open because there is so much more to life if you do.

Alex has lived the nomadic life of an expat for over a decad living in the Middle East, Istanbul, Germany and recently settling with her family in Thailand. She teaches yoga in Bangkok and when not on her yoga mat, waxes lyrical about her oversea adventures. Contactable via: masteryoga@elbolivng.com

Half Term over the River Kwai by Alex Bannard, Frost’s Thailand correspondent

Posted on March 23, 2016 by Margaret Graham

Planning a half term break with a friend and her kids, Alex really experienced the beauty of whatever will be will be.
As half term approached and the realization dawned that our husbands would be working, my dear friend Meghan and I planned to take the kids away together but where? I’m not one for planning too far in advance so we were well into January before thoughts turned to half term. But having been knee-deep in major house renovations during our time in Germany, I was determined when we arrived in Thailand not to make the same mistake gain. This time, life would not take over, and opportunities for adventures and exploration would not be missed.

We talked about Krabi, or maybe a road trip down to Phuket but couldn’t finalise, nothing seemed right. I reminded Meg that whatever will be, will be. Then one day she was reminiscing about a trip to Kanchanabhuri on the banks of the River Kwai, staying in the hotel of the boys’ class mates and the light bulb came on. A few emails backwards and forwards and suddenly with days to spare until half term, we were on.

Kanchanabhuri is approximately 2 hours drive west of Bangkok. The fourth biggest city in Thailand, and compared to the capital it is a sleepy suburb.

Nestling on the River Kwai it was made famous by the novel and film Bridge over the River Kwai re-telling the brutal tale of thousands Thai’s and POW’s who lost their lives building the Burmese Railway, also know as Death Railway.

We were greeted at Mstay by Khun Ae the owner and mum of the classmates and instantly made to feel like part of the family. The resort overlooks the river and is peaceful and private, serene and soulful. It felt a million miles away from Bangkok. We spent the afternoon playing in the pool with the kids and having a heavenly foot massage.

The following morning Khun Jon joined us from Bangkok and all three families headed off into history and a ride on the infamous Death Railway. In true Thai style the 11.30 train arrived at 11.30-Thai-time: almost an hour late. On board we secured Thai donuts and pancakes for the journey and were treated to stunning views of the river.

That evening our hosts who also own a watersports rental took us out on a sunset speedboat tour of the River Kwai. Meanwhile my son Akiro, and Khun Jon hit the river on a jet ski – what an amazing treat for Akiro, speeding along super fast on his first ever jet ski trip.Onboard the speedboat we popped a bottle of fizz and tried to drink it sedately whilst the wind whipped our hair into a frizz and the fizz into a mini whirlpool in the glass. It was a relaxed end to a thought provoking day.

The next day we took a trip to Erawan Falls. This has been on my Bangkok-bucket-list since arriving here and it did not disappoint. The falls are a series of 7 waterfalls. With small kids in tow we only ventured to the first 3 and in the third took a dip. Fish nipped at our toes, which was disconcerting and it was hard to maintain a calm demeanor by which to encourage the kids into the water: we only managed to entice 4 of the 7 kids in.

This time it was my daughter Indie’s turn for a first: her first waterfall swim. The water was cool and refreshing and the fish left us alone once we were swimming.

That afternoon Khun Ae took me with her to her local hairstylist, where I has the best hair cut so far in Thailand and it only cost 250bht (£5). I resolved to catch the train down from Bangkok when the next hair cut is due. Meanwhile the kids were planting banana trees elsewhere on Khun Jon’s estate and we have promised to return when the trees need harvesting.

Our last day took us to a local farm. With a pickup truck loaded with plastic chairs doubling as a makeshift bus we trundled out to the corn fields. I am sure we were quite the sight to the workers in the fields: a truck full of Farang picking corn. Apparently I was a natural. Probably did it in a former life. We headed back to the farm for a mini spa treatment. Organic sesame paste made at the farm, mixed with ground coffee and sesame oil and massaged onto the skin – seriously soft and smooth results and another Bangkok-bucket-list ticked: natural beauty products sources for the bathroom cabinet.Afterwards an afternoon relaxing by the pool lay ahead.Before we left Kanchanabhuri we of course had to go down to the famous bridge for photo opportunities. It was hard to think of the trauma and misery of those times, and to feel that we were walking in the footsteps of so much suffering. We looked at the river, at the way it was alive, and vibrant again. We thought of the train journey we had taken on the railway and enjoyed, but it was a railway line, which accounted for the lives of so many captives, of so many nationalities.

There was much to think about amongst the click and laughter of so many selfies, and much history to process.

In our 4 days in Kanchanbhuri we were treated to the most amazing hospitality, kindness and generosity by our hosts and I cannot recommend Mstay more highly. I love leaving a place knowing when I return there is more to experience. The families merged beautifully laughing and joking with ease as if we had grown up together. We mostly ate locally and of course it was delicious and very different to the usual red and green curries. And it absolutely proved the old saying: if it’s meant to be so it will be in the most beautifully eloquent fashion.

Alex Bannard has lived the nomadic life of an expat for over 10 years. After a successful career in retail she became a mum and decided on a more holistic approach to life, teaching yoga. In 2015 the family moved to Bangkok where Alex started writing articles on yoga and her Bangkok adventures for a local magazine, Expat Life, and is also Frost Magazine’s correspondent. She continues to teach yoga and mindfulness to adults and children.

Best Chinese New Year Ever by Alex Bannard – Bangkok Correspondent

Posted on February 22, 2016 by Margaret Graham

The year of the monkey.

My first Chinese New Year (well not my first, I’m 45, there have been many) but the first I have celebrated was amazing, energizing and inspiring, spiritual and serene. Since I arrived in Bangkok I have wanted to do a cycle tour of the city. A very good friend invited me up join her and her cousin. On the day we realized our tour coincided with Chinese New Year and were a little doubtful of whether being bound for Chinatown on saddle was such a good idea. We couldn’t have been more wrong.

We arrived at the Follow Me headquarters a little late but we were welcomed warmly & joined by a Japanese girl who was in Bangkok over the weekend for work. We were dispatched to watch an amusing induction movie on cycle conduct before wobbling out of the drive and heading off.

Navigating the narrow soi’s was at times precarious especially if there was on-coming traffic either on foot or 2 wheels but we soon got the hang of it. Our first stop off was at a local Wat home of a primary school. The King, Rama 6 was educated at Oxford over 100 years ago and travelled around Europe. He saw children being educated in schools initiated the building of primary schools in the same grounds as the temples, the monks becoming the teachers. To this day many of these schools survive today. Matthew our guide, was educated in such a school.

Matthew’s Thai name is Thew meaning good view, a fitting name since he was born to be a guide and gave us a great insight and view of Bangkok, full of knowledge and very entertaining. He proceeded to tell us about his 15 days training as a monk, common in Thailand and a huge honour. He was 25, the lessons he learnt and the 15 days immersed in the spiritual life of a monk changed his life.

Next stop was the old customs house along side the river. Now derelict it is soon to be renovated into a luxury hotel. We made our way past the modern post office, the old British embassy. Then we went to the Chinese temple which was amazing.

The Doctor Buddha resides in this temple, so called because of his healing hands during his lifetime.

Locals who desire better health will pilgrimage to this temple but on Chinese New Year, the temple was buzzing, incense filled the air & tall thick red candles bought by local families, labeled with the family name burned brightly.

It was a very special moment to celebrate the dawning of the year of the monkey 2259 (2016 on the Gregorian calendar).

We cycled into Chinatown. Red lanterns adorned shop alcoves. Banners hung across the street and almost everyone was either dressed in traditional Chinese dress or red. The atmosphere was electric, carnival like. And it was barely 10am.

I needed to buy Chinese New Year costumes for the kids and myself so we could join in the celebrations at school and got very lucky with some great purchases. Then I got the kids a Chinese New Year dragon…when in Rome and all that. Talk about taking multi-tasking to the next level.

The next stop was the flower market. The flower market runs 24 hours a day. It is divided into the offerings section and the wedding section. Don’t get them confused and take flowers from the wrong section to the wrong event, it could get awkward. We saw 50 roses for 80bht approx £2 and other Valentine treats, such as roses styled out of Ferrero Rocher, a perfect Valentine’s treat for Mr P.

Then we loaded the bikes on the river taxi to go across the river to another local Wat, The Royal Temple. Not known on the tourist circuit since it nestles next door to and is overshadowed by the Arun Wat but since this is enfolded in scaffolding rendering it hugely underwhelming, Matthew took us next door.

This fabulous set of temples is usually quiet during the week but since it was Chinese New Year it was absolutely bustling. The air was again heavily incense infused, the bells ringing in our ears as the worshippers cleansed their spirits by chiming every bell.

Matthew gave us each 2 lotus flowers and showed us how to fold the lotus leaves to reveal the flower, a wonderfully therapeutic exercise, almost meditative in its essence.

Then we made an offering to the Buddha of the flowers and wound our way back to our bikes through the throng.

Back on the saddle we wove through more Soi’s glimpsing snatches of Thai life: small dark shop openings; flashes of flatscreen TV’s through part open doorways; women sitting on wooden seats watching the world go by; kids playing bare foot in the street; family members asleep on the floor and lots of greetings of ‘Sawadee ka’ and ‘Happy new year’. It was marvelous.

Every so often through the tour we would venture onto the main roads and on the way home we certainly navigated the busiest roads, 3 and 4 lanes in both directions but it was not as treacherous as I thought it would be. The smaller roads, where cars has slowed to allow us through were more so as the moped drivers whizzed through the gaps, reminding everyone who really is king of the road in Bangkok.

Back at base we were awarded an ice cream and the possibility of a foot spa in the pool of tiny hungry fishes, I declined this with my sights set on Dean and Delucca round the corner and a well deserved New York style lunch for a change, but is a great tour, a totally different way to explore and experience Bangkok with or without the added festivities of Chinese New Year.

Later that week, the kids and I headed to school adorned in our Chinese New Year outfits for a morning of welcoming in the year of the monkey. In Foundation Stage the children made lanterns, lucky money and ribbons amongst other traditional crafts. The girls cavorted with their ribbons along to videos of professionals doing the same before we headed to the Chinese New Year assembly. A wonderful celebration showcasing the best of Bangkok’s Chinese music, Kung Fu & off course the finale with the Chinese Dragons. Next year we’re planning to join the Chinese Dragon Parade and party in Chinatown.

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