Spotlight on Portugal Fashion AW14

The Portugal Fashion show showcased work from two Portuguese designers at Fashion Scout, Daniela Barros and Joao Melo Costa. The shows were due to be held upstairs in The Vestibule but changed last minute due to the darker colours used in the show by both designers.

 

 

                                                                    

Geometry Androgyny

Geometry Androgyny

Daniela Barros had an androgynous theme which ran through all of the looks. The Models were styled in a grunge style with flat-forms and grunged out boots. Geometric lines featured on some of the styles and main colours used were grey, black and white with the only flash of colour coming from the Cobalt Blue featured in the piece above.

 

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What we can’t ignore from the collection is that Barros’ collection is structured, clean and oversized which seems to be a key trend for AW14.

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Joao Melo Costa the show started with some stunning jewel encrusted sleeves on yet again some more oversized coats an androgyny seemed to be a running theme through both shows. Costa featured some more tailored, innovative suits with pinstripes running through them. The colours were similarly dark, simple and chic, offset with blue jewels used on the autumnal shades, whites and deep purples.

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There seemed to be a mixture of two-pieces which featured tailored skirts underneath oversized tees which added to the innovative and modern feel to Costa’s collection.

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The final feature was that Costa chose to play with different textures by incorporating leather tasselling into his oversized jackets

Leather tasselling detail.

Leather tasselling detail.

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Keshini Misha

Would like to give a special mention to the wonderful sponsors @PanasonicUK for their wonderful hospitality and managing to get Frost Magazine onto front row to get some good pics of the show. #LumixGM

Spotlight on Basharatyan AW14

Backless Cardi

Sheer Cardigan

Veronica Basharatyan London College of Fashion Graduate unveils her Heidmork collection at Fashion Scout inspired by the Icelandic Nature Conservation.

Inspiration for the collection; Iceland with a beautiful haunting Emiliana Torrini Soundtrack to the show.

Main Colours; An eclectic palette of icy hues such as pastel blue, light greys and creams with flashes of bright red and forest green. The collection was also enhanced by the Peroxide bobs and metallic lip and nail palette.

Features; a recurring feature of many of the AW14 collection is attention to the back of the garment. Sheer back knits and sleek silhouettes were juxtaposed with oversized mohair detailing and heavy drapes.

 

 

 

 

Tailored Two-Piece

 

This collection was beautiful and really encapsulated the essence of Basharatyan’s influence. The Mohair caped jacket and Mac were particularly stunning and wearable. Tailored garments mixed with oversized cardigans gives an eclectic and varied depth.

 

Keshini Misha

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Spotlight on Ong-Oaj Pairam AW14

Cobalt Frock

Cobalt Frock

Ong-Oaj Pairam was back at Fashion Scout this year to showcase his third collection. This included both Womenswear and Menswear and he took his inspirations from super-villians.

 

Ong-Oaj Pairam originally from Thailand studied Fashion Design at Brighton University

Main inspiration for the collection; Ursula from The Little Mermaid and The dark artistry of Charley Harper

Main Colours: Deep purples and Forest Greens interspersed with Neon Orange, Yellows and Cobalt Blue

Fabrics used: Ong prefers British Textiles and a heavy feature was PVC, Hand Embroidery and flowing Silk Gowns

 

This has been my favourite collection at Fashion Week so far, the collection was beautiful and the staple dark colours of grey and black with flashes of block colour and neons, cobalt blue appear to be a huge trend for AW14. Pairam’s use of neon was inspired by warning colours of exotic animals and the use of PVC and detailing on the more tailored pieces seem to be evocative of his inspiration Charley Harper. Some stunning flowing gowns mixed with tailored twin sets and the highlight of the show was the Neon Orange Mens Edge to Edge jacket.

 

Neon Galore

Neon Galore

 

Keshini Misha

@Keshinibeeny

Nicole Scherzinger Hits The Headlines in BasharatyanV

The gorgeous Nicole Scherzinger looked fierce and super toned as she appeared on DayBreak TV and later at Café de Paris in the sexy look from young brand BasharatyanV. The white silk combo is from the brand’s new SS14 collection Frida, which was recently shown on the catwalk at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week.

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Nicole Scherzinger looking hot as ever.

 

What do you think?

 

Lauren Smith – fashion gold

After Graduate Fashion Week in June, Lauren Smith was the name on everybody’s lips as the young Scottish designer walked away with the coveted George Gold award. After recently graduating from Edinburgh College of Art with a BA in Fashion, Smith is now set to complete an MA in Textiles back in Edinburgh.

Yesterday, Frost caught up with Smith while showcasing her collection at the Graduate Showcase for Vauxhall’s Fashion Scout.

The 3 pieces you have on show today were taken from your graduate collection, what were your inspirations behind this?

My collection has been heavily inspired by the work of Dieter Roth. Two of his collections, “Diaries” and “Work Tables” are specifically important. I am intrigued by what we leave behind i.e. our thoughts, workings and secrets. As seen in his collection “work tables”, Roth discovered that what was left behind on our desks etc was actually sometimes more interesting than the final works. The sketches, scribbles and notes left aside aren’t planned or organised and it is this aspect I wanted to bring into the garments.

 

Roland Mouret described your collection as ’emotional’ – do you find that your personality comes into play a lot when you’re designing?

I always like to make my work personal, I feel like it’s the best way to introduce myself and work to the industry. I am so pleased Roland Mouret picked up on it with my graduate collection!

 

What materials did you use for your collection? Were these easy enough to come-by or did you struggle to source them?

I used a number of materials in the collection including leather, cotton canvas and cotton panama. The main focus of my collection was the manipulation and embellishments and so the materials weren’t particularly complex.

 

You won gold at this year’s Graduate Fashion Week – congratulations! – what are your plans now?

I have just started my MA in Textiles at ECA and am really looking forward to exploring a combination of textiles and fashion.

 

Where do you want to take your designs in the future?

I haven’t got a set plan for the future but I want to keep exploring and creating work that combines fashion textiles and illustration.

Liz Black SS14

“Perceive / Deceive” – the title of Liz Black’s Spring Summer 2014 presentation. A title that evokes mystery and wonder and invites the audience to make their own perceptions of the collection (or so the show notes tell me).

When first entering Black’s presentation room, I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it; just two models stood still next to sharp white structures while mannequins were spread around the room wearing different pieces of the collection; at the end of the room, a projector shone onto a white wall revealing snippets of models showing off looks from behind a screen – not something I’d experienced before. But then that’s the beauty of presentations – it’s a chance for designers to showcase their hard work in an environment that a runway might not allow, a chance to create an entirely new conceptual experience.

Going back to the title, Black’s collection was inspired by the optical artist Jesus Rafael Soto and the conceptual world of Venezuelan Kinetic “where you are invited to form your own personal perception of colour, line and touch”. Using these inspirations, Black created geometrical looks using bold colours of cobalt blue, greens and greys on structured materials with strong silhouettes.

Stand out pieces included an all-blue shorts and leather jacket suit with hair wildly quiffed at the front with a flash of cobalt blue smeared across the eyes. However, the most intriguing looks on show were structured dresses with black and white striped panels and flashes of either blue or yellow with 3D scaffolding-like structures.

The geometric features within the collection along with the sharp architectural setting of the room worked together to create the perfect showcase of Black’s optical concepts and inspirations. Although a little mystifying at first, I can’t help but feel that Black’s choice of presentation suited her collection perfectly, as a catwalk just wouldn’t have done it justice. For this collection, context was everything.

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Eugene Lin SS14

eugene lin ss14

Taking a step-back from his loud digital prints from last season, Eugene Lin has focussed his latest collection on clean, structured pattern-cutting with inspiration being drawn from Valkyries of Norse mythology.

A runway show full of pure whites, loud colour pops and immaculate pattern-cutting, Lin’s showcase was a complete set of outfits that anyone could pull straight from the catwalk and make their own. From neat high-waisted trousers and mid-length skirts to structured strapless dresses and a precision-cut orange jacket worn with nothing underneath, each piece spoke for itself.

But while the whole collection was stunning, a few pieces really stole the show. The first look to appear from behind the white walls at the Fashion Scout hall was a stunning crisp white t-shirt and pleated mini skirt combination; clean, elegant and chic. While a more vibrant pumpkin orange shift dress with structured, boxy skirt and side pockets on precision cut fabric took the dress to a whole new level of sophistication. However, more detailed pieces were sent down the runway in the form of sharp black jackets and trouser suits featuring feather prints which were inspired by the wings of a Valkyrie – female spirits of battle who could transform into swans.

This season Lin presented a showcase of deluxe ready-to-wear pieces that would make any woman proud to adorn; he is going from strength to strength and we love his direction.

(Image: Yahoo.com)

Runway Rundown: Autumn/ Winter 2013

An unexpected feature that was prominent on many runways this February was colour. It seems that this Autumn/ Winter will be brighter than it has been in a long time and who’s complaining? But don’t worry, designers haven’t ditched the typical dark and moody for the later months as black also made a strong statement. To give you a taster of what’s to come, here is a rundown of some of the shows that Frost attended this season.

KTZ

KTZ
With black and white making a strong statement, some of the looks on the KTZ runway looked like something between high school preppy and a character from The Crucible. White collared shirts were worn under black pinafore dresses and some of the models legs were wrapped in skin-tight patent black tights giving the basic look a little edge. The show notes told us that the collection was inspired by witch craft and tarot cards which was made evident by the massive snap-backs with moon sized visors and tarot printed garments. Even though some of the collection was a little wacky, there was something very wearable about all of the pieces which made the show an even bigger success. All in all, a dark palette with a surprising splash of colour in either red or burnt orange.

Jena Theo

Jena.Theo
Held in the small space of the Portico Rooms at Somerset House, the Jena.Theo show was a very intimate showcase of a completely brilliant collection. A surprising feature was the use of colour and print with black only being featured in a couple of the looks. A strong feature throughout the collection were high necks on dresses and kitted jumpers giving a real sixties vibe to some of the looks. Given that the show invitation was emblazoned with an acid spray painted smiley face, it was unsurprising to see the print on some of the dresses and t-shirts. The cerise pink colour of the invitation was also a prominent feature on long sleeved shift dresses and jumpers. With each piece being just as beautiful as the next, this collection is definitely one that would look good in all wardrobes.

Kukhareva

Ekaterina Khukareva
Inspired by retro housewives, Khukareva’s collection for this winter was nothing short of fabulous. The rich textures and decorative patterns were real eye-catchers on the mid-length skirts and cigarette trousers which, to be completely honest, are not given justice in the photographs online. These designs have got to be seen in person to appreciate the deep colours in her signature knit lana wool and viscose. And if the clothes didn’t say enough, the hair definitely did. Pinned up in massive curlers, thanks to the design talents of Lara Jensen, the height and size of the hair worked perfectly with the body con dresses and flowing skirts. This collection was a definite favourite.

Eudon Choi

Eudon Choi
The autumn/ winter Eudon Choi show was a complete spectacle of all things folk. Complete with a Russian string quartet, velvet room dividers and orchids, the Portico Rooms was transformed to play host to his beautifully dressed Babushka doll inspired models. A-line skirts, thick woollen statement coats and bell-bottom trousers came in an array of electric blue, baby pinks, red and black and were paired with head pieces decorated with bright flowers and pom-poms. In terms of beauty, the models were fresh and dewy faced with blushed cheeks and nude lips; a look that paired perfectly with the exaggerated colours and textures of the clothes. The polished and feminine look of the collection was a first for Choi but one that went down very well with the audience.

Yifang Wan

Yifang Wan
Merit Award winner Yifang Wan show cased her collection in the Freemason’s Hall during Fashion Scout’s runway this February to a great reception. The concept of the physical and mental restraints of the human body behind the collection was great to read about in the show notes and one that created the perfect match of garments and accessories. Her choice of metal structured accessories worn as bracelets, belts and even held in the hand or over the shoulder that paid homage to her inspirations of discipline and control were not only striking but completely thought provoking. They stood out against the backdrop of the dark palettes of indigo, black, emerald and dark violet on perfectly structured silhouettes. Thick wool coats worn over dresses and tailored trousers were the perfect minimalistic pieces needed to let such strong influences shine through.

[Images courtesy of Google Images]