WRITERS ON THE ROAD: CHRISTINA COURTENAY

I write stories about the Vikings, and being half Swedish, it would have been easy to just set all of them in Sweden as it’s a place I know well. But where would be the fun in that? The Vikings were intrepid travellers and explorers, and journeyed far and wide. I had a wealth of places to choose from, and as I’ve been working on a series, I decided early on that each book would feature a different location. That hopefully makes it more fun for both the readers and myself!

Book five, Promises of the Runes, (out this month) is set in Norway, and I’d previously used Sweden, Russia, Iceland and England. For book six, therefore, which I’m working on at the moment, I turned my sights on the Orkney Islands. It was a place Scandinavians had traded with for centuries, and no one really knows exactly when they began to settle there rather than just visit occasionally. By the 9th century, when my book takes place, they were well established and had integrated fully with the previous occupants, the Celts. Most of the islands have Norse names – any that end in ‘ey’, for example, as that means ‘island’.

There is nothing better for an author than to actually visit a place we are writing about. It helps with descriptions, catching the essence of a place – its scents, sounds, nature and people. So I dragged my husband along on an epic road trip. A twelve hour drive up to Scrabster, followed by 90 minutes on a ferry, and suddenly there they were – the gorgeous Orkney Islands.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather and had beautiful sunshine and blue skies interspersed with fluffy clouds. The air is so clear and I found myself wishing I could paint the landscape just because the light was so brilliant. There’s a huge amount of history, going back to Neolithic times, but I was concentrating on anything remaining from the Viking era. We headed first to the Brough of Birsay, a tidal island that can only be reached by a causeway during low tide. Here are the remains of a large Viking settlement, the outlines of the houses clear on the grassy site. I could definitely see why they’d wanted to live in such a beautiful location! It was also perfect for use in my story.

We visited several other Viking sites – one at Orphir called Earl’s Bu and another at Deerness. To reach the latter, we had to walk along spectacular cliffs that were part of a nature reserve. The Vikings had a settlement on top of a 30 metre high sea stack on a promontory sticking out into the North Sea – an isolated place, but again, stunning. Nearby was a beach and cove, perfect for longships.

In Kirkwall, the main town, the historical museum had lots of Viking items, among them a bear tooth carved with runes. It might have been worn as protection against magic or to imbue the wearer with a bear’s strength.

The most poignant reminder of the Vikings, however, was in the Neolithic tomb at Maeshowe. Shaped sort of like a beehive buried inside a huge earth mound, it is reached via a 10 metre long tunnel only a metre high. A thousand years ago a group of Vikings had apparently taken shelter there and scratched graffiti all over the walls. There were more than 30 messages written in runes. It really made these people come alive for me and I could see them sitting in there, bored and restless. The connection was almost visceral and I was so pleased I got to experience this.

If you get the chance, do visit the Orkneys!

Buy link for Promises of the Runes – https://geni.us/ExsdDss 

 

 

Scotland’s Islands autumn & winter 2011 events

Celebrate island culture and heritage this autumn and winter with an action-packed line-up of exciting events as part of the Year of Scotland’s Islands festivities.

Royal National Mod

Lewis

14-22 October 2011

Scotland’s premier Gaelic festival returns to the Outer Hebrides in 2011, providing opportunities for people of all ages to celebrate Gaelic linguistic and cultural heritage, including Gaelic music and song, dance, instrumental, drama and literature.

Although the focus of the Royal National Mod is on competition, the event also offers a wide and comprehensive programme of non-competitive events which include performances from some of Scotland’s top traditional musicians and Gaelic singers.

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/64/royal-national-mod

Scottish International Storytelling Festival (Summary of Island-Based Events)

21-30 October 2011

An ideal place to discover Scotland’s treasure-trove of stories in a lively celebration of storytelling performance exploring the links between Scotland’s rich storytelling heritage and other cultures. These island-based events take place on Bute, Fair Isle, Iona, Cumbrae, Mull, Skye, Orkney, Shetland and the Outer Herbrides.

This year the Festival is all about exploring and pursuing the island experience through story, myth, music, song and dance. Greek and Roman myths mix with sagas of the Celts in this ten day festival. Enjoy the traditions of Scotland’s Islands alongside Mediterranean tale spinners and musicians from Corsica, Sardinia, Malta, Greece and Cyprus.

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/502/scottish-international-storytelling-festival-(summary-of-island-based-events)

Comedian Ed Byrne

Shetland mainland (24 October 2011 )

Orkney mainland (25 October)

As an observational stand up Ed Byrne, has played in major comedy venues across the UK and Ireland, including the Vaudeville, Riverside, and New Ambassadors theatres in London, and the Gaiety, Olympia, Ambassador, and Vicar St. theatres in Dublin. His UK tours and regular TV appearances are always hugely popular and well received by the critics.

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/447/comedian-ed-byrne

Night Time Tour of the Spectacular

Mount Stuart

Bute

27 October 2011

Mount Stuart is claimed to be Britain’s most astounding Victorian gothic mansion. An opportunity to experience the house at its most peaceful.

By candlelight and torchlight, your guide will lead you through the house on a specially devised route, taking in many private areas of the house.

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/507/night-time-tour-of-the-spectacular-mount-stuart

Shetland Food Festival

Shetland Mainland

5-13 November 2011

A celebration of mouth-watering Shetland produce, including some more unusual specialities such as seawater oatcakes, Shetland Black potatoes and more-ish fudge!

Food lovers’ events include cookery demonstrations, producers’ markets and Christmas craft fair. There’s also a ‘Ready, Steady, Shetland’ cook-off, where Shetlanders present their take on the popular TV programme, Ready, Steady, Cook.

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/440/shetland-food-festival

Harris Tweed – Past, Present and Future (celebrating the centenary of the Orb 1911-2011)

Lewis

18 November 2011

This one-day event marks the centenary of the orb by reviewing the history of this vitally important and distinctive island industry with a variety of engaging talks, poetry, film, story-telling and discussion sessions.

Arranged by the Island Book Trust in conjunction with the Harris Tweed Authority, the event will bring together people from different backgrounds to celebrate the island’s successes and achievements and reflecting on the current and future challenges it faces.

The Ba

Orkney mainland

25 December 2011

Traditional street rugby, played by the Uppies and Doonies with a much prized locally made leather Ba’ (ball).

The Ba’ is thrown up outside St. Magnus Cathedral and the game ranges through the town. This game is played annually on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Spectators are welcome but be careful!

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/491/the-ba

Up Helly Aa

Shetland mainland

31 January 2012

Shetland’s biggest fire festival, Up Helly Aa, celebrates Shetland’s history with a series of re-enactments, culminating in a torch lit procession and Viking Galley burning.

Considering it’s held in mid-winter on the same latitude as southern Greenland, Up Helly Aa has never been cancelled

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/434/up-helly-aa

Papay Gyro Nights 2012 Art Festival

Pap Westray, Orkney

6-13 February 2012

Papay Gyro Nights is an international film and video art, contemporary art, music and architecture festival based on folklore and tradition of Orkney. The Festival takes place in unique and remote settings on the island of Papa Westray. The idea of the festival has originated from the ancient Papay tradition of the Night of The Gyros. The Festival is also a reflection the island’s landscape and heritage as well as interpretation of tradition and ritual.

http://www.scotlandsislands.com/festivals-events/info/274/papay-gyro-nights-2012-art-festival

For more information on the Scotland’s Islands initiative visit: www.scotlandsislands.com