In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme – Part 3 by Penny Gerrard

Captain Walter Basil Haddon-Smith

The Gerrards and the Hodsons had successfully tracked down the first of Richard’s family members and so onwards on the next stage of our journey – this time to find the Le Touret Monument to 13,400 soldiers whose families had no marked graves to visit.  On this would be carved the name of Walter Basil Haddon-Smith – a first cousin of Richard’s grandfather. Walter was a Captain in The Queen’s Regiment and was killed in action on 16 May 1915 at the battle of Festubert commanding D company.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard1 “The Le Touret Monument to the Missing with its surrounding graves”  

There were no problems with navigation this time and we entered the quiet grounds of the monument which sat huge and timeless in the rolling French countryside which was unrecognisable from the devastated landscape it was 100 years ago when Walter fell. The names were faint and we struggled to photograph them but there it was –  the simple name “Haddon-Smith W.B.” among so many thousands of others. The quiet was only broken by the sound of birds singing.  How many generations of birds would have lived here since those whose song was stilled by the fighting I wondered.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard2 “The name ‘Haddon-Smith W.B.’ engraved on the stone”

Richard explained to us that Walter’s Battalion plan was for A Company to lead the attack with two lead platoons followed by two remaining platoons behind with a 50 yard interval, followed by B, C and D companies in identical fashion.  The distance to the German trenches was 180 yards over uneven ground with ditches and long grass.  The attack was preceded by artillery bombardment of the enemy positions from 2.45 to 3.15 am.  Then, as daylight broke, A Company scaled the ladders and rushed towards the German position.   The enemy opened fire immediately.   After elements of C Company had gone over the top, enemy resistance was unaffected and a second artillery bombardment was requested and lasted 15 minutes.  Then the remainder of C Company and D Company attacked.   By 7.30pm the operation came to an end.   Of the 27 Officers and 963 other ranks, total casualties were 19 Officers and 416 other ranks killed or wounded.   A sad postscript was that his wife Edith had died of peritonitis ten days before Walter was killed.   Richard will never know if Walter was told of his wife’s death before he went into action.   He was posthumously “Mentioned in Despatches” for gallantry.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard3 “The Le Touret Monument with its 13,400 names”

We had started to realise that time was passing by fast and lunchtime was upon us.  What we needed was a crusty baguette bursting with ripe Brie or some such appetising filling (we were remembering the tempting arrays in the boulangeries of Lille).    Not apparently to be found at lunchtime out in the wilds of the French countryside though.  The occasional tabac serving a full meal was our only choice but “Madame” whipped us up light and fluffy omelettes.   The lunchtime passed in sociable chat with other war grave pilgrims as we compared notes and family histories.  We wondered what was in store for us next as we travelled on through the French countryside.

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme - Part 3 by Penny Gerrard4“Our lunchtime tabac”

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme Part 1 by Penny Gerrard

In Search of the Past – A visit to the Somme by Penny Gerrard Part 2

 

 

Toulouse in Instagram Pictures Part 3: Food | Travel.

Following on from Part 1 and Part 2 here is the part people have really been asking for: food! French food really is amazing and I had some amazing meals. As you can see from the pictures. Our Toulouse Travel Guide is here.

Breakfast at the Citiz Hotel. They had a great buffet spread. 

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Dinner at J’GO Toulouse. The best pork and chips I have ever had in my life. While we were having dinner a brass band started up outside and played ‘Funky Town’ and other classic songs.

 

J'GO Toulouse

J GoPate, bread and salad.

Pork and chips. This was the best pork and chips I have ever had in my life.

Pork and chips. This was the best pork and chips I have ever had in my life.

30896b50e17411e2898122000a9e069f_7Chocolate fondant.

We had an amazing Lunch at La Chai Saint-Sauveur. Their veal was superb, followed by strawberry pie and a cute strawberry macaroon. The second picture is Esme’s vegetarian meal.

29a13e32e17211e2810822000aaa09c2_7Salmon with pate and beetroot sauce. The salmon was marinated and divine. a468bc80e17211e28dc722000a1fbcbc_7Esme’s vegetarian dish. Asparagus and onion on pastry. db5cd816e17211e2a86422000a1f9839_7Veal and Asparagus with onion and pastry. 030d665ae17311e29e6e22000ae811b0_7Strawberry Pie with a cute strawberry macaroon.

 Py-R Restaurant, Toulouse. The food was absolutely divine.

Bread and bread stick. I love the dish.

1016801_10151432609907093_1520697695_n1016587_10151432603162093_1675868550_nThe starters. Yummy. 1043940_10151432601962093_2060176847_n

 

1045189_10151432604362093_1649701278_nPoached egg, pork knuckle baked broth, cantal paste, peas just creamed, vegetable tray: red shell onions, sprouts, broken hazelnut shortbread.

1045033_10151432611357093_259675017_nPeas just creamed.

1012607_10151432607787093_876331681_nHake, Avocado guacamole, celery paste cooked in a sugar, fennel, cherries, Pedro Ximenez, Jerez Almonds, leeks vinaigrette, beans, chorizo bellota, crunchy noughat nuts.

1044659_10151432613262093_1336705581_nChouchou, red fruits, Vanilla cream, Air Pepper.1003891_10151432614052093_1959058010_n

All of the restaurants were amazing. The food was out of this world. I highly recommend a visit to all if possible, at least one if not.

Have you ever been to Toulouse? Make recommendations below.

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Have You Seen… Five Documentaries to Seek Out (Part Three)

Charles Rivington asks the immortal question: Do all dogs go to heaven?

 

I stated way back in part one that I was going to present this list in no particular order. Having said that I have saved my favourite feature length documentary by my favourite documentarian for last and written so much about it that I’ve had to give it an article in its own right. Oh well…

 

Gates of Heaven (1978)

 

Throughout the first two parts of this three-part article and through these four brilliant films, I have touched on some very challenging issues: war, mental illness and suicide, child molestation and the disintegration of a family, the birth of the movies. It therefore might seem somewhat anti-climatic, perhaps even rather disrespectful to have as my final entry a film about pet cemeteries. Surely a documentary about people batty enough to spend large amounts of money giving Fido a proper burial can only ever be mildly amusing (in a sort of ‘ha ha, she thinks he’s people’ kind of a way) or perhaps even just a bit pathetic. Surely, it can’t be one of the greatest and most profound works about mortality, loneliness and the human condition ever made, right?

 

Wrong. Errol Morris’ Gates of Heaven is, quite simply and quite literally, an incredible film. It’s the sort of film you could watch every day for the rest of your life and it would still be deeply rewarding. Throughout this article I’ve touched on what I believe makes a great documentary and I’ve suggested two things. Firstly, I’ve stated that a great documentary should be impartial and force the audience to form their own judgements

An enthusiastic pet owner.

without telling them what to think.  Because of Morris’ unobtrusive style and the fact that he lets his subjects speak for themselves and is neither nor seen nor heard throughout the entire film (Michael Moore could certainly learn from him), Gates of Heaven does this so effectively that that at any given moment of the film one section of the audience might be in tears while another suppresses giggles. Secondly, I have suggested that the great documentary will often take a subject and use it as a springboard to touch upon much broader or challenging themes. Gates of Heaven is a movie about freaking pet cemeteries that deals head on with humankind’s most terrifying and impossible question: that of its own mortality and solitude. This is truly the stuff of genius. It is one of the greatest documentaries of all time, by one of the greatest documentarians of all time and quite frankly one of the greatest films of all time. It’s also one of my favourites.

 

     Gates of Heaven takes as its inspiration the story of the exhumation and transportation of 450 pets from one cemetery to anotherThis fascinating and odd story is used to shape the film, which is structurally little more than a series of talking heads, into two halves. The first of these focuses on the story of Floyd “Mac” McClure, a paraplegic man who had dreamt of building a pet cemetery after the death of his childhood dog, and uses interviews with pet owners and investors in order to explore how his dream briefly became a reality. Particularly memorable interviewees include Mac’s rival, the owner of the local rendering plant who attempts to defend his unglamorous profession to hilarious effect, and a woman who holds conversations with her dog.  Most of Morris’ subjects have their eccentricities, and the film is not short of humour, but he has a unique skill for looking beyond these to the humanity below, frequently unearthing

Devastating

accounts of loss and loneliness. The story of the failure of Mac’s cemetery is a particularly resonant example of these and the tragedy of the matter is that this compassionate man was unable to translate his dream and his passion into a workable business.  It is a tragedy that occurs daily but that does not make it any less heart breaking and I imagine that it will resonate with many people, perhaps even more so now than in 1978. The final shot of Mac sitting in his wheelchair under a willow tree, surveying the former site of his failed cemetery is entirely devastating, a perfect, wordless evocation of loneliness and despair and a prime example of Morris’s subtle and unobtrusive early style.

 

 

Florence Rasmussen sits on her stoop.

At the film’s centre, acting as a kind of transitional moment between the two distinct halves, is a monologue by an elderly woman named Florence Rasmussen. It is truly one of the most bizarre, moving and hilarious few minutes of any film I have ever seen. Sitting on her stoop outside her house, which overlooks Mac’s cemetery, this fascinating woman recounts her baffling life story in short bursts, constantly contradicting herself as she attempts to explain her troubled relationship with her son. In another’s hands this might have come across as exploitative or condescending and it is abundantly clear that Rasmussen could easily have been mocked as a stereotypical madwoman. Morris’ camera however does not judge, merely records and the entire film is mercifully devoid of any cruel reality tv editing or Louis Theroux-style winks to the audience. Instead Florence is allowed to speak for herself and the result is a frustrating, funny and ultimately sad meditation on one woman’s delusion and loneliness. It is a stunning monologue and one that, as Roger Ebert states, ‘William Faulkner or Mark Twain would have wept with joy to have created.’ And yet, it is reality. It is reality, in its most pure, unedited and unscripted form. Sometimes real life truly is stranger than fiction.

 

 

A funeral at Bubbling Wells

The film’s focus then moves to The Bubbling Well Pet Memorial Park, which is run by the Harberts family. Patriarch Cal is a lot more ambitious and business savvy than Mac but shares his compassion for animals and has even built a church in order to celebrate God’s love for pets. His wife Scottie shares this view stating that, ‘God is not going to say, well, you’re walking in on two legs, you can go in. You’re walking in on four legs, we can’t take you.’ Although clearly successful in their business endeavours, the Harbarts family also harbours some unhappiness and this is particularly obvious in their sons Danny and Philip who both left their other lives (college and a job as an insurance salesman) to come back to the family business.

 

 

A bereaved couple reminisces in Gates of Heaven

There is one moment from this second half of the film that never fails to move me: a long silent montage of the headstones at Bubbling Well. If I had seen it on it’s own without the benefit of the rest of the film, I admit that it would probably have left me cold and it is true that some of the inscriptions are at first glance rather trite, silly even (‘God spelled backwards is dog’ etc). However after 80 minutes spent in the company of animal lovers and grieving pet owners and hearing them express their loneliness and grief, these inscriptions become a profound articulation of a universal and fundamental need for companionship and love. One of them reads ‘I knew love: I knew this Dog’ while another simply reads ‘For saving my life’. It is clear that there are stories behind each of these inscriptions, heart-breaking, heart-warming stories behind every headstone, stories about what it means to be alive, what it means to love and what it means to experience profound loss. They are stories about what it means to be human. Gates of Heaven merely touches on a few of these stories and in doing so it earns its place as one of the greatest documentary films of all time.

 

 

Gates of Heaven is currently available on DVD as part of ‘The Errol Morris Collection’ box set along with Vernon, Florida and The Thin Blue Line, which are both excellent.