Travel Jerusalem: A Modern Guide To An Ancient Wonder

by Holly Thomas. All images by iPhone, copyright Holly Thomas [Twitter, Instagram: @HolstaT]

Jerusalem is in our consciousness from earliest childhood. But it’s a place that, for many of those who have never been, occupies the same mental space as fairy tales. Something which we’ve known of since we can remember, but can’t imagine being real. I’m not religious, and in Jerusalem you are met at every turn with things which described second-hand would sound preposterous. But when you’re there, the history of it all is immediate, indisputable, and alive.

It helps that so much architecture is – against all odds – beautifully preserved. Jerusalem has amplified since the days of crusades and crucifixions and the new city and West Bank stretch far, swaddling villages and towns, including Bethlehem. But step inside the Old City, home to the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the site of the Last Supper, and you’re plunged into another world.

Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life

So, you should go to the Old City first

The Old City stands east of the (busy) Hebron Road, which runs through the centre of Jerusalem. The sections of Hebron Road which north and south of the West Bank, and through Jerusalem, are barred to green – Palestinian – license plates. Israeli license plates are yellow. Jerusalem feels safe, and as a traveller, you have nothing to fear.

Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life3Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life8 The first thing you see when you walk through Jaffa Gate on the Western side of the city is King David’s Tower, which was built (bar an extension courtesy of the Turks) by King Herod – a crack architect, it turns out. Every night the sand-coloured building plays host to a light show which tells the 3000-year story of Jerusalem accompanied by music. It’s a beautiful show, well worth spending 30 minutes on to get a sense of the city’s roots. Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life13 It’s a tiny place but the concentration of marvellous things is so high that I couldn’t possibly recommend them all in this space. So here are a few unmissables. Everything is so close together that I promise you’ll discover your own in-between hunting these out:

The Western (wailing) Wall

For obvious reasons, this is the only area of the Old City which you must pass though some security to enter. Standing against a backdrop of the Mount of Olives, and with the Call to Prayer echoing regularly just next door, it is plain why this is a site of high emotion for so many. But it’s so worth seeing. Dress conservatively – knees covered – and behave with respect for the three thousand years of history the wall represents. Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life10 Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life7

The Cenaculum of the Last Supper

This is just down the street from the Western Wall, but for the full experience, head to the Church by way of the Stations of the Cross. These days the path is lined with shops and stalls, but there are still lasting signs, such as the Church of Simon, built on the spot where its namesake apparently helped a fatigued Jesus make his final steps.

A few treasures in the Church

The first thing you see when you Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the stone of the anointing, where Jesus is said to have been prepared for burial. To reach the site of the crucifixion itself, you must pass through a small, dark archway and climb a short winding staircase. There you’ll find the Alter of the Crucifixion, and next to it a hole in the floor covered by glass, exposing the bare ground below. Be prepared for a crowd, particularly in the evening and on Sunday. Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life5 Descend the other side, and you’ll see what looks like a sensationally ornate hut – that’s the Aedicule, which contains the Holy Sepulchre itself. The Aedicule has two rooms, one holding the Angel’s Stone, which is believed to be a fragment of the large stone that sealed the tomb, and another holding the tomb itself. Be prepared to queue for entry.

Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life6

The roof

This was my favourite place in Jerusalem. I was lucky in that I met someone who showed me how to get up there, but it wouldn’t be hard to find someone to point the way (you might have to be prepared to buy a trinket off one of the street stall vendors). Go at dawn or sunset, if you can. Unlike the walls walk, the roof is never closed.

Away from the bustle of the tourist-jammed streets below, this is where you’ll feel you’re in the Jerusalem the Romans found. Schoolboys park their bikes up there, people hang their washing (oddly like Edinburgh, Jerusalem is stacked in layers, house atop house atop street), and you can quite literally see everything from a perspective you’d never otherwise have known existed.

Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life4

Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life9Don’t forget the new city

I’ll admit I biased my time in Jerusalem pretty heavily in favour of “old stuff”, but there’s a whole lot beyond that to see if you fancy a dip into the 21st century between biblical ruins. Try the market, unlikely jazz cafes in the evenings, and the adorable hipster quarter. There are a few decent clubs, but if you want a wild one, go to Tel Aviv (about 40 minutes in a taxi). And don’t be perturbed by all the teenagers with guns – they’re in the middle of their compulsory military service.

Jerusalem Travel Guide food

Further afield

The Holocaust Museum

If you only have time for one excursion beyond Jerusalem’s city centre, make it to the Holocaust Museum. It was the first stop on our trip, and it lingered in the back of our minds until long after we’d left. The building is stark, and beautiful, clean lines which stand in the midst of quiet serpentine grounds dotted with trees, overlooking the valley. Entry is free, but children under ten years old aren’t permitted inside.

Set at least 4 hours aside for it if you can. If you have a day spare, this could fill it. There is a staggering amount to see, plus over 11 hours of video footage playing throughout the main exhibition alone. It’s all riveting, beautifully presented, and will tug powerfully at your heart. The extraordinary breadth and delicacy of the subject matter is handled exquisitely, covering the historical prelude to the Shoah, the Nazi’s rise to power and gradual attrition of Jewish liberties, and at last the gruesome unfolding of the Holocaust across Europe in horrifying detail. Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life2 The collection is acutely personal, packed with details which will knock your breath out. Like mementoes from the ghetto, set next to a video interview describing first-hand the sight of emaciated bodies littering the street, no clothes spare to protect their final modesty. There are letters flung through train windows bidding farewells which were never known, and charred shoes from the death camps piled in a heap on the floor. There is more to take in than you possibly could in one viewing, but once you start you will continue, wrapt, until you are saturated. Make sure that you leave time at the end for the children’s memorial, a cave in the grounds with candles reflected to infinity on its mirrored walls. Also, the Avenue of the Righteous Among The Nations, where you’ll find a tree dedicated to Oskar Schindler and his wife Emilie.

Out of town

Go to the Jordon Valley. Sinking 400 kilometres below sea level is like arriving onto another planet, conversely a drier, hotter, desert Mars-like planet, dotted with thin donkeys and ibexes. If you can, pass Jericho on your way to the beach. It’s one of the oldest cities in the world, dating back 11,000 years. It was Alexander the Great’s private estate, and King Herod later leased it from Cleopatra (who received it from Mark Anthony as a gift). Even if you just drive past it, it’s worth planning your West Bank route around. And you must an hour or two aside for a trip up to Herod’s fortress on Masada. Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life11

Masada (Herod’s fortress)

You can either climb or take a ski lift up the mountain to see this spectacular evidence of Herod’s final paranoia (he built the fortress in -reasonable – anticipation of a rebellion by his long-suffering subjects). The view is unparalleled, and to Herod’s credit as a mad architect, the fortress remains in fantastic condition millennia later. Jerusalem Travel Guide See if you can spot the lockers in the wall next to the old indoor swimming pool (really). Also remember to walk right up to the edge (it’s obvious where that is once you’re up there) and shout something into the canyon for a wicked echo. Jerusalem Travel Guide Frost Writer Holly Thomas Has The Time of Her Life16

The beach

The Dead Sea calls for a couple of hours at most. Spend longer and you’ll get bored, but a dip and a splash is uplifting and delightful. It’s smaller than you’d imagine – so much so that iPhones became confused, and O2 welcomed me to Jordon (which was visible through the mist which hung over the water). The beaches are concurrently small, dotted along the shore, and have a vaguely dated resort-like feel. A hint of Butlins lingers over the deserted playground behind the beach huts. The water, though, is magical. Slather yourself in thick mud, wait for it to dry, and then wade in to rinse it off. You *really* can’t sink, and Jesus’s feats suddenly appear less fantastical as you realise the impossibility of not floating. Lie on your back and you feel supported, safe, and importantly, warm. Jerusalem Travel Guide Holly Thomas

Where to stay

The Arthur Hotel has resided comfortably on Tripadvisor Jerusalem’s top five list for some time now, and it’s instantly clear why. This boutique hotel – just 15 minutes’ walk (or a three minute tram ride) from the Old City maintains an intimate, private atmosphere, tucked down a side street of one of the most buzzing neighbourhoods in Jerusalem. The service is lovely – you hardly notice it’s there until you need something, at which point help materialises immediately. The rooms have an individual, luxurious feel, and are decorated with obvious care, a world away from the homogeny of so many elite chain hotels. Breakfast, served as a daily buffet from 7am-10am, is delicious, with regional delicacies such as shakshuka, grilled vegetables, and fish offered alongside more familiar pastries, cereal and fruit salad. For explorers who have been too busy gaping at their surroundings to stop for lunch during the day, there is also a ‘happy hour’ in the restaurant from 5pm-7pm, where you can enjoy snacks and sandwiches with your complimentary wine.

Final note

Jerusalem is a complicated place, no mistake. There isn’t space here to dwell on the implications that one of the holiest sites on earth, sacred to so many, is perplexed on all sides by strife. There is pain in Jerusalem, both older than the ruins, and newer than the Hebron road. If you ask why it isn’t advised to go to the Mount of Olives on a particular day (this is sometimes the case, though visitors really are the safest people in the city), the answer you get will vary hugely depending on who you ask. Wounds are deep, and though I fell for Israel heart and soul, I think it is necessary to stay mindful of your surroundings. This shouldn’t be a deterrent – on the contrary, it should be an incentive to go to this important and fascinating country. Just be respectful and cautious with your opinions when you are talking to the people for whom it is home. “It sounds silly, to call a four-day trip ‘life changing’,” said my friend on the plane back. “But it was.”

Some People Actually Have a Problem With The All-Female Ghostbuster Cast

all female cast, ghostbusters, sexism, film, Upon hearing a piece of modern music my Grandfather always used the line, ‘You kids today, you don’t even know you’re born.’ Well if you are a young thing and you have not seen Ghostbusters then let me tell you: you don’t even know you are born. The same goes for most 80s & 90s films. The 80s and 90s were great decades for film. Fact. Which is super exciting because not only are they doing a remake of Ghostbusters, but it has an all-female cast. Yes people, you heard it right: an all-female cast. Kristen Wiig, Melissa McCarthy, Kate McKinnon and Leslie Jones will star in the 2016 remake. Problem is, even though it is 2015, some people actually have a problem with this.

Director Paul Feig tweeted the news of the new cast and confirmed the new Ghostbuster film release date: July 22, 2016.

 

Paul said: “It’s official, I’m making a new Ghostbusters & writing it with @katiedippold & yes, it will star hilarious women. That’s who I’m gonna call.” Not everyone is as enlightened as Paul however. Social media was awash with sexist comments about the all-female cast. Funnily enough, no one had a problem with the all-male cast. Some Tweets were funny:

 

 

The most depressing thing is that in 2015, the new Ghostbuster film having an all-female cast is actually a thing. While I won’t be giving any trolls publicity here there was one important person who gave it the thumbs up: the original Ghostbuster himself, Dan Aykroyd. A statement read:

 

“The Aykroyd family is delighted by this inheritance of the Ghostbusters torch by these most magnificent women in comedy. My great grandfather, Dr. Sam Aykroyd, the original Ghostbuster, was a man who empowered women in his day and this is a beautiful development in the legacy of our family business.” 

 Dan Aykroyd is obviously a very awesome and evolved man. As is (@JohnRossBowie) 

 

 

Bill Murray hasn’t said anything about the project but the other surviving member of the original, Ernie Hudson, doesn’t seem happy about it; he doesn’t think it should carry on the Ghostbusters name as it will have  “nothing to do with the other two movies.” and while he said he was not against the idea of an all-female cast his first reaction to the casting news on Facebook was  “No comment”. There are more brilliant reactions in this excellent Radio Times article.

 

Ghostbusters all-female cast: good or bad idea? Have your say.

 

 

 

Emma Watson Speech for HeForShe IMPACT 10x10x10

She used to just be that annoying character in Harry Potter but now Emma Watson has a brand new bag: standing up for gender equality as a UN Women Goodwill Ambassador. Here is her speech for HeForShe IMPACT 10x10x10 Program at the World Economic Forum 2015. It is another great speech and it will hopefully make a difference.


UN Women Goodwill Ambassador, Emma Watson, delivered another speech encouraging world and corporate leaders to take action for gender equality during the kickoff of a HeForShe program launch at the World Economic Forum at Davos on January 23rd, 2015.

Emma WatsonReady to take action? Make your commitment at www.HeForShe.org.

What do you think?

 

 

Askerswell Short Story Workshop by Wendy Breckon

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One of the most pleasant ways to spend an afternoon, is to share ideas with other writers and learn one or two writing tips.  On Saturday 17th January, the car ambled through the country lanes to Askerswell near Bridport, for a short story workshop.  Accompanied by a rather large notebook and a trusty pen, I bumped into other like minded people as we walked up the path.  The flyer for the Dorset Writers’ Network said, ‘let your imagination fly’, and that is exactly what we did.  In the warmth of the cosy surroundings of Grey Cottage, our excellent tutor, Frances Colville guided us towards creating the perfect short story.

Askerswell Short Story Workshop by Wendy Breckon

The twelve writers gathered around the table, listened, scribbled down ideas, exchanged helpful notes and read their work.  There is something magical about listening to other peoples’ writing.  All so different.  Quite fascinating. Wonderful.

Frances is a very accomplished writer.  She gave us a clear understanding into the composition of a good short story.  I found her tips very helpful and thought provoking.  One of the constructive ideas she presented to us, is to hot seat your chosen character. This technique is valuable for gaining further appreciation of characterisation; such as understanding his or her personality; age; relationships with others or individual motives. Either, ask yourself the questions about the person you have created, or ask someone else to ‘hot seat’ you.  Both are effective tools to consider when writing a short story.This was very helpful, for gaining an extra insight into the creation of our own characters.

Askerswell Short Story Workshop by Wendy BreckonOur tutor made a number of further practical suggestions; the important use of dialogue in short stories; the inclusion of dramatic tension and how to achieve it, and the necessity for vigorous editing.  Reading your story out loud is very important for getting the sense of rhythm and pace.

A worthwhile exercise to do at home, (which I immediately applied to my own writing), with great success,  is to explore a written piece and the application of descriptive words.  Are they the best ones to choose?  Are you using cliché and words that are too obvious?  Frances suggested, that as writers we underline each one, and think of them on an individual basis.

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Four o’clock.  It was the end of the session.  Chairs were placed under the table. Notebooks and pens disappeared into bags.  Coffee cups pushed to one side.  Everyone left chatting, heads buzzing.

Frances Colville gave us lots to think about in her invaluable and absorbing session.  I could have stayed for another two hours.

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So now, it’s time to think of an idea!  If you want to take part in the competition, create a story with a maximum of 500 words.  This should be set in Dorset, have a strong sense of place and have equally strong characters.  The winners will be chosen for the e-book anthology and the closing date is the 31st March.

So, let those thoughts slide on to the page  and your imagination fly. Without any further hesitation get writing.

 

 

Words For The Wounded Writing Prize Closes On 11 March

W4WLogoAlt3 Words for the Wounded writing prize closes on 11 March. two grannies Why on earth do three grannies (two shown above) throw themselves out of a plane, strapped to a fit young man, hoping their parachutes open? Well, OK, the fit young man is a bit of a clue. But seriously, why? pic2 janairborne The reasons lie in the past and the present. In the past, both my grandfathers survived the first world war, so just as there were thankful villages who had lost no men, so too there were thankful families. But life isn’t that simple, is it? Gentle Percy, my mother’s father survived but took his own life in 1923. War has long, relentless tentacles which reach out and destroy families, just as surely as bullets do. pic3 poppies Then, about four years ago I met a young  man and his wife. They were both under twenty five. She was pushing him in his wheelchair; his portable ventilator lay on his chest. He’d been shot through the neck in Helmand and is tetraplegic, (paralysed from the neck down). They were both smiling and cheerful but their hopes and dreams were very different now, and everyday life was a mountain in itself.   I decided that, as writers, my two granny friends and I could help not just the wounded, but also aspiring writers. We founded Words for the Wounded and were enormously lucky in our patrons, amongst whom are Julian Fellowes, Louis de Berniers, Katie Fforde, Paddy Ashdown and many others. Julian Fellowes   We decided also that we would earn our donations, not just appeal to the generosity of others; hence the skydive, and hence the Mud Challenge Obstacle Course in August, and hence the LitFest to be held at High Wycombe on 18th April  2015 with Katie Fforde and two Midsomer Murders writers amongst others.   katie-fforde Our main thread, however, is our writing prizes. We have the short category for poetry/fiction/memoir – up to 400 words, with prize money of £400. Entry fee £4.50   This year we are launching The Independent Author Book Award for fiction or memoir, with a 1st prize of a Palamedes PR professional press release. pic 6 palamedes.jpg And a biography and review in Frost Magazine.  Entry fee £12.50 pic7Frost The WforW grannies absorb ALL the costs themselves, so every penny raised goes to the wounded. Our troops put their lives on the line for us, some are killed, many, many,  more sustain life-changing injuries. To help them is the aim of Words for the Wounded. They deserve the best.

For more information: www.wordsforthewounded.co.uk 

Bust Boredom Online

The Christmas season is a wonderful time, families and friends coming together to kick back, relax and enjoy a little time away from the daily grind, celebrating the end of another year. Naturally this was all a lot of fun, though looking past the enormous amounts of food and frivolity, the post-Christmas period can be a rather tedious experience. Bank balances have been drained, the hangover from the season’s parties just doesn’t seem to want to lift, and as such we’re stuck inside, boredom easily setting in. Luckily however, there is one thing that can satiate our desire to actually do something, a cheap, fun, endlessly enjoyable resource; the internet!

ipad tablet

Shopping online is a great way to while away those boring moments, and has long been one of the most popular ways for people to get hold of their favourite wares, and for good reason. There’s hundreds of deals out there, and online retailers are well known for regularly releasing huge numbers of discounts in order to entice wily shoppers. Take, for instance, poster site AllPosters. This site regularly has sales, so if you’re thinking of changing the flavour of your home you should definitely spend an hour or so scrolling through the millions of images on offer.

 

If your bank balance isn’t up to the task of funding a little online shopping, then injecting some excitement into your post-Christmas period is easy- indulge in a spot of gaming! We’re not talking board games- we want to reduce the levels of stress, after all- but online games. Gaming site Betsson’s selection of titles is very large indeed. With slots, poker, blackjack and plenty of themed games including Game Of Thrones, you’ll have no excuse to go bored this January! If that doesn’t tickle your fancy then there are heaps of apps, downloads and console games that will similarly shield you from the ravages of boredom! Kongregate has a huge number of browser games, many of which are in complete 3D, and if you enjoy the MMO experience, Planetside 2, a first person shooter that hosts literally hundreds of players in battles could be a great way to pass the time!

 

January doesn’t have to be all about relaxation, and if you’ve got a rather large amount of free time until you get back to work then now is a great time to get planning for the year ahead. Been putting off researching that career or education move you’ve been hankering for? Crack out the laptop and get looking- you won’t regret it when you’re sitting pretty in February, all plans having been set into motion.

 

If none of the above has done enough to beat back banality, then there are still better things to do than pointlessly surfing clickbait sites. Instead, sign up to a site like stumbleupon! On these kinds of sites you can choose a number of interests which the website then uses to come up with fun, interesting and thought-provoking content for your consumption. You’ll never be bored again!

 

 

 

Great Movies For a Couple’s Night In

couple's night in, night in, The daily drag can become rather monotonous at times. Wake up, go to work, come home, eat, sleep, repeat; such a routine could make even the most positive individuals among us screech with boredom. For couples, this monotony can be even more tedious, repetition ruining an otherwise blissful co-habitation. If you need an injection of fun though, getting your fix isn’t difficult- just pop on a movie, tear open a bag of popcorn and have a couple’s night in! Here are some of the top films if you’re struggling which to pick.

 

Romance

 

A genre often reserved for couples that feature a man who is highly permissive, romantic films aren’t all painful watching for guys and there are a host out there that both partners will enjoy. For those dabbling in hipsterdom, Scott Pilgrim Vs. The World is a fun, rock-filled bet, or perhaps you’d both like to go classic with the Woody Allen original Annie Hall. Failing these two, Lost in Translation is a great flick that dabbles in romance whilst still preserving the humour of Bill Murray that any film-lover will enjoy.

 

Action
The opposite of romance flicks, most guys would be stunned if their beloved offered to watch an action film, but the experience doesn’t have to be a Michael Bay explosion-fest. The Bourne Trilogy- they’re all very good- is a great mix of action and espionage, plus a little romance for the ladies, whilst Johnny Depp’s drug docudrama Blow will enthral both of you. Oceans Eleven and Twelve are also two pretty good picks; both paint a very true picture of the high-stakes, dangerous lifestyles of casino thieves, and are naturally a great choice if you or your partner are interested in the new craze of online gambling sweeping the globe! If you’re enthused after watching, a great, fun idea could be to join Euro casino games lounge for a few online rounds of poker together; you won’t be able to card count, but hey- don’t let that ruin the fun!

 

Horror

 

Scary films are a great divider when it comes to date nights. Having one spook-averse member of the couple regularly stops the notion in its tracks, though if both of you love a little scare. The Shining is a classic that’s not too gory, so could be a good choice, plus the performances by Jack Nicholson and Shelley Duvall. 28 Days Later, a haunting zombie flick that still keeps a nice bit of indie filmmaking swagger, is also a lot of fun to watch, Oscar-winning director Danny Boyle not getting too bogged down in zombie killing, gore and action, instead focusing largely on emotion and character development.