Culinary Creativity with Chocolate

Toot Sweets Tempers Festive Flavour Fusions

Julia Wenlock from Shropshire was studying Television and Radio Production when a part-time job in Manchester at Belgium chocolatiers, Godiva, changed her direction and she found her love of all things chocolate. This was in 2002 and now eleven years later she is creating, making and selling her own uniquely stunning chocolate range. Her retail base is the Market Hall in Shrewsbury, Shropshire – which is filled with interesting producers, cafés and other quirky retailers. Having built a loyal customer base in her home town and across the county she has launched her chocolates online and is starting to develop opportunities beyond the county border…

tootsweets

Festive Fusions – ginger wine, chestnut and cranberries

For Christmas 2013 Toot Sweets is launching some of its most creative combinations so far. Julia has considered festive flavours and how they may work effectively in her chocolates. This has resulted in a Chestnut and Truffle Oil Caramel, Ginger Wine Truffle and something a little more ‘off the wall’ but it definitely works – an Umami Mushroom Truffle! These add to her chocolate bars, including flavour packed candied orange peel and chilli flakes or cranberry and pistachio. She also tempers familiar festive shapes and wreaths – these come in both small sizes and a large version, to hang decoratively on doors, with colourful edible arrangements. The Christmas collection is being launched ahead of Chocolate Week (7th September) at Brompton Cookery School, Shropshire which is run by TV-chef, Marcus Bean.

Moving On Up – retail background

Julia’s journey to retailing and making her own chocolates was helped greatly by the time at Godiva and Selfridges, Manchester, within the Grocery and Confectionery departments. Julia was selected for a place on the ‘Moving On Up Programme’, only five were chosen from regional stores and this gave her an opportunity to be trained as a future department manager. In 2007 her mother passed away and she thought that this was time to do something for herself back in Shrewsbury and her first experimentations with chocolate began. She started out selling other people’s chocolates but soon decided that the only way to really control the ingredients and quality, along with guaranteeing originality – was to sell only her own creations.

Award Winning – from great taste to international recognition

The first awards that Julia entered were in 2010 when she was successful in the Great Taste Awards for both her White Shropshire Lavender Truffle and her Dark Butterscotch. This was followed in 2011 by success with her Dark Shropshire Lavender Truffle. In 2012 Julia won the BBC Producers Bursary Award at the Winter BBC Good Food Show and she is returning in November as BBC Good Food Champion. Earlier in 2013, she entered the Academy of Chocolate Awards and achieved Silver for her Salted Caramel Truffle and this was followed in April by a nomination from the European semi-finals of the International Chocolate Awards – leading to a place in the finals, held during Chocolate Week this October.

Ingredients, techniques and imagination – only the best

Julia believes strongly that the best ingredients result in the best end product for her customer. She uses only three types of chocolate. Amedei – which is created by the Italian family business with Criollo and Trinitario cocoa beans, Marou – single origin chocolate from Vietnam and also Original Beans finest chocolate – for every Original Beans bar bought a tree is planted to replace this by the farmers in the rainforests. Julia most frequently hand-tempers her chocolate but also has a small tempering machine. Her creations are made using as many local ingredients as possible such as lavender from the Shropshire Lavender Farm and honey from the county’s youngest bee keeper, Tom Oliver. The centres are always made first and left to cool through the day or overnight and then shapes are hand-rolled or piped before being dipped or enrobed in chocolate and then decorated. Julia enjoys demonstrating her skills and regularly carries out workshops at shows and events.

Julia commented; “I know people often say this but I was genuinely inspired by my mother. Cooking and experimentation with exotic and new flavours was part of my childhood. I try to do this with Toot Sweets chocolates – making sure that the final combinations really work. Some make customers think for a second – particularly the mushroom one! I try to be innovative but also include some classics that everyone loves – they hopefully taste better because of the way that I make them and the ingredients that I use.”

 

Kennedy’s Chocolatiers’ Convention; The Latest In Chocolate

“It’s just lovely,” says Richard Reilly, Managing Director of Kinnerton Confectionary. Everyone knows  everyone, and people tend to help out where they can. Around Easter sometimes we make eggs for each other.”

I nod through a mouthful of rum and raisin ganache truffle. We’re standing in the British Library, a venue aptly ripe with imagination and invention for the Chocolate Industry Network, where manufacturers, innovators and gluttons gather annually to discuss their dearest subject. There are tables covered in samples, chocolate moulds, chocolate history, chocolate everything. “You should come see the chocolates being made in the Norfolk factory. It’s beautiful,” adds Richard. Willy Wonka might dance off the shelves at any moment.

Not all industries are nice. Fashion is notoriously bitchy. Finance is stressful.

chocolate convention

But the business of making chocolate seems rather sweet. Richard is keen to stress this point, enthusing: “Everyone knows about the main producers of course. But there’s camaraderie among the lesser-known chocolate makers. We’ll happily make things for one another here and there. Co-operation is good, it’s all about trade.”

And so riding our sugar high, we network away. The day consists of a mixture of lectures, discussions, and general chat over the good stuff. Refreshing lemon drinks are on offer for those who have had a little too much. I learn about the always-encouraging health advantages from Leen Allegaert, an innovation manager in clinical research. Apparently just 10 grams of high-cocoa chocolate provides beneficial flavanol, an antioxidant which helps to maintain the elasticity of blood vessels. This contributes to normal blood flow and general cardiovascular health. “And that amount only contains 55 calories. It’s pretty reasonable,” adds Leen. It occurred to me that I must already have consumed enough chocolate during the day to reap the delightful effects of flavanol many, many times over.

chocolateThere are inspirational stories brewed in the conches of chocolate factories all over the world. Heikel Ethel, owner and manager of the Lebanese company Ethel Chocolates, describes his embryonic creations when he set out to form a business in the early nineties: “I clumsily sandwiched biscuits – I bought bags of all kinds that I could lay my hands on- with chocolate for the children in the local villages around the Bekaa Valley.” Heikel was quick to respond to sweet-toothed demand, and his business grew swiftly. He bought a building, machinery, and took his brother on as sales manager. Two decades later what began as a one-man show is now one of the most well-regarded luxury chocolate brands in the world, operating out of 160,000 square metres of factory space. I sample several of his elegantly-packaged wares, they are refined and delicious.

There are still constant challenges, ones particular to operating within a turbulent environment. Ethel describes his approach as “The Lebanese reaction to a tough time.” Things change quickly, and he adapts. “Fuel and electricity are expensive at the moment. But we still train every employee how to wrap chocolates perfectly.” He stresses that Lebanon is an “open market country”. Saudi Arabia and Kuwait are the biggest buyers of his chocolates in the Middle East.

On the other side of the coin is Charbonnel et Walker, who have sold chocolates since 1875 out of their flagship store on Old Bond Street. Peter Irvine, Director of UK Sales and Export was adamant that even despite cruelly high rent, they would never change their location “to say, Regent Street”. Tradition is everything, even among employees. “Our average experience level on the core team is 25 years,” he added.

hot chocolate

And Charbonnel have – gradually, carefully, made some headway towards attracting a younger market. Their ‘handbags and heels’ range of shaped chocolates shifts 250,000 units per year, and their target demographic is no longer the over-sixties. Women between 35 and 50 are now Charbonnel’s most devout consumers – though their pink champagne truffle sets hearts racing across the board. Charbonnel remain suspicious of new trends. Peter sniffs that while introducing a sea salt flavour was a “brave but unavoidable risk”, you’ll “never see us start to use chilli. It’s not for us, and others do it better.” They ought to know what works. Charbonnel sell chocolate at a breathtaking £75 per kilo, a staggering margin beyond any other company present today.

Chocolate is addictive. Once they enter the chocolate world, people tend to stick around. “It’s a good place to be,” muses Richard Reilly. “One thing I would emphasise is the importance of ethics, though. People get very hung up on the idea of organic. But the thing is, that’s all just a question of certification. Cocoa is grown in places that are organic by their very definition. If you’re willing to pay a little extra for chocolate, spend it on fair trade. Make sure people are paid fairly.”

 

Win a fabulous Divine Christmas Hamper

Have a Delicious Christmas with Divine!

Whether its hanging from your Christmas tree or hiding underneath, it’s that time of year again where chocolate is never too far from our fingertips!

8 out of 10 of us admit we indulge in our favourite chocolate treat each week, making us a nation of self-confessed chocolate lovers. And since it’s the one time of year we don’t have to feel guilty about eating it Divine have introduced scrumptious new fair-trade products to satisfy our chocolate cravings this festive season; whether it be after dinner ginger thins, Christmas coins and trees made with their critical acclaimed dark chocolate.

 

Divine is the only Fair-trade chocolate company which is 45% owned by the very coco farmers who pick the beans in Ghana. So you can be sure your chocolate is not only seriously scrumptious but responsibly and fairly sourced too.

 

Why not be in with a chance to win a fabulous Divine Christmas hamper for your loved ones (or yourself!) which includes 3 chocolate Divine Christmas trees in milk, dark and white chocolate, 2 bars of luxurious Divine chocolate, Ginger Thins, Mint Thins and Christmas coins!

 

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To win the Divine Christmas-themed chocolate hamper please follow Frost on twitter, @Frostmag and answer this question:
Which country are Divine Chocolate cocoa beans grown?
a) Ghana
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c) Lapland


 

The World’s First Chocolatiers’ Convention. What’s Hot in Chocolate

Frost recently got a golden ticket to The World’s First Chocolatiers’ Convention, and yes, we were just as excited as the kids in the Wille Wonka film. The convention was organised by Kennedy’s Confection Magazine and we heard the best and most impressive chocolate makers talk. A.Boyd Tunnock was a particular favourite. I had a good chat with Boyd who invented the Tunnock tea cake in 1960. He is as nice as he is brilliant.

Here are my highlights.

Pekka Rantala, managzing director of OY Karl Fazer, talked about Fazer becoming a €1.6 billion company. Fazer have teamed up with Angry Birds to make some really cool Angry Birds sweets. Okay, they are not chocolate but they are bang on trend. Check out the cool video below.

Next up was Peter Meadows from California Raisins. Peter says that raisins are just dried out grapes. The grapes are picked and layed out to dry. They are harvested in late August and there is a two-to-three week drying process. Raisins are 1 £500 million industry. In Tesco raisins are the second biggest bagged snack after Maltesers.

A. Boyd Tunnock CBE is the grandson of the founder and the inventor of the Tunnock Tea Cake. Tunnock’s was started in 1890 by Thomas Tunnock. They expanded in the 1950’s. Tunnock’s makes 9 million biscuits a week at their Uddingston factory and Boyd says, ‘When success comes you have no idea how, you just keep going.’

Boyd’s eldest gandson, Colin, works for Cadbury. Boyd says that he has a toy store compared to them but he is happy with it.

9 out of 10 people eat chocolate.

Sophi Tranchell MBE, managing director of farmer-owned Divine Chocolate. Average income for a cocoa farmer is £328 per year. 80% of the chocolate industry is owned by three companies. When a survey was done in West Africa only one child out of 250 wanted to be a cocoa farmer. Divine Chocolate are impressive. They aim to improve the livelihood of cocoa farmers in West Africa. Chocolate for those who want to buy ethically.

Francisco Redruello is a senior food analyst and had some great information and Willie Harcourt-Cooze. Willie is a well known chocolate maker and entrepreanur who came to fame in Channel 4 documentary Willie’s Wonky Chocolate Factory. We tried some of his chocolate and it is good.

Body language expert Judi James then turned the lights on and gave us all chocolate. She gave an excellent talk on chocolate and body language and then said what our chocolate eating habits meant. Judi says we only share chocolate to make ourselves look good, but I don’t believe her. Do you?

Predictions in the chocolate industry from Angus Kennedy.

Personalisation of the product.
Bolder tastes like cheese & wine, pumpkin, chilli, olive oil, bacon and carrot.
More indulgence. Chocolate with an indulgent appeal.
Smaller packets. As the recession kicks in, packs get smaller but stay the same price.
Sharing. 56% of people like to share.
Healthier chocolate. For people who are lactose intolerant for example. Did you know that 90% of people in Africa are lactose intolerant and 70% in United Kingdom and 20% in all of Europe.

trapped sweeties {Misc-uity}

Somedays I feel like this.

I don’t know who the artist is so can’t credit them properly but found this one on ffffound.

Not so Hidden Gems part Deux: The Fattening {Ceri's Column}

Please don’t kill me with sticks but I have to say…AMERICAN CANDY KICKS ASS!

There I said it. Happy? No? Don’t believe me? NO? Well, first off, how frigging dare you. Second off, it bloody is. The chocolate bar most associated with US confectionary is Hershey’s. Now I will admit, a plain, as you are, milk chocolate, regular, no fries Hershey bar tastes like sub-Aldi own brand. Almost gone off. Most Dairy Milk competitors from the States just taste like balls…as in, not nice. K? Right…

But when it comes to other bars and chocs, sadly for all you Union Jack wavers, they rule. Compare a Peanut Butter Twix to a lunch box friendly British one-finger. No contest. I’ll be singing the Star Spangled Banner next! Peanut butter M&M’s rock my mouth off too! How do I know this?

CYBERCANDY.

Next door to Snog Frozen Yogurt (the wondrous place I wrote about in “Not so Hidden Gems”) in Covent Garden, there is a sweet shop like no other. Or rather, a sweet shop like they must have in other countries whose chocolates they stock…so, what I want to tell you is Cybercandy stocks and sells sweets from around the globe. Sorry, I’ll learn to write some day.

American chocs are mainly peanut or peanut butter based, Canadian stuff is usually bigger version of British stuff, Japan has a real taste for Apple, New Zealand is crazy for marshmallow, Sweden loves liquorice and Mexico can fuck right off with its crappy salty offerings. Bleurgh!

It isn’t just chocolates they have, Oooooh no sir! Gums, Chews, Taffy, Root beers, giant Japanese Mountain Dew, other American sodas, Quagmire from Family Guy themed Energy Drink (I shit you not!),pop tarts, American cereals like Lucky Charms, Dairy milk bars from other countries, Japanese Ramune Soda and all sorts of edible bugs, astronaut foods and flavoured toothpicks and TWINKIES!

This place is like Heaven. Proper no-foolin’ Heaven!

You shop with heart-shaped buckets that fill-up waaaay too easily. The shop itself is tiny and always jammed with people going “Aaaaah! I saw this on The Sopranos!” or “Duuude! I used to get this all the time at home, man…yee haaa!” (An American ex-pat, y’see!)

My highlights are:

–          Japanese Kit Kats; They are tiny and come in a variety of crazy flavours like Bubblegum, Ginger ale (lush) and Sweet Potato!

–          Butterfinger bars from the USA: Peanut butter flavoured brittle encased in chocolate. Devine.

–          Brown Sugar Cinnamon Pop Tarts – Droooooooool.

The only note I’d give this place is: GET SOME AMERICAN POTATO CHIPS! American Doritos, Fritos, Cheetos and any other crisps not necessarily ending in “os”!

Apart from that. Go there. Now. Get diabetes, I don’t care! It’s worth it. Mmmmmmmmmmmmm.