Adam Andrascik Spring Summer 2013

“the collection draws it’s inspiration from the couture shapes of the 1960’s , combined with an ongoing fascination with the work of Lucio Fontana’s ‘slashed’ canvases, and the development of textile techniques and finishing unique to the label.’

On Tuesday morning I headed over to see Adam Andrascik round the corner from Somerset House. The shows was held in a room with the models standing around its edges so the audience could walk up, take photos, admire the clothes and drink champagne!

Sadly, this was the time my camera chose to run out, so I had to make some quick sketched of the collection to give an idea….

The collection made up of clean, elegant clothing. Shirts and A-line skirts featured in a futuristic but feminine a style, as we have seen in a lot of shows over this S/S13.

Classic shapes and silhouettes at the front of the garments give way to bellowing sheer fabric at the back, creating a twist to familiar cuts.

Shiny and sheer fabrics mixed together to create each look. This, combined with the models swept back hair, dark eyebrows and clean make up created a futuristic and alien feel.

Adam Andrascik S/S13 collection, is beautiful, wearable and sophisticated. Perfect for the modern day woman.

http://adamandrascik.com/

Fashion Fringe. Final Show London Fashion Week S/S13

The finale to London Fashion Week S/S13 was Fashion Fringe, a platform set up to help young design talent to display their collection.

As a design student myself I am always glad to see young designers being helped by those already established in the industry, and i know and appreciate how much work and dedication goes into making a collection and starting up a business.

For Fashion Fringe ten young designers are chosen from thousands and those ten are then whittled down to three. The winner is then announced at the end of the show.

This years finalists were Haizhen Wang, by Haizhen Wang, a graduate from Central Saint Martins who has previously worked for Max Mara, Boudicca and All saints before establishing his own label in 2010. Wangs S/S13 collection is inspired by architect Santigo Calatrava and Japanese amour. It featured precise lines and had echos of both femininity and masculinity. 3D digital printing was also used on the collection adding a futurist feel to his work.

Teija by Teija Eilola. Eilola, a graduate for RCA and previously head of women’s wear at Ted Baker. Her S/S13 collection “All that is Solid” was feminine and sophisticated with soft, earthy colours and luxurious fabrics swishing down the catwalk. The trench coats and outwear had exiting cuts and shapes with with large silhouetted sleeves. Personally this was my favourite collection and I loved the contrasted use of draping mixed with pattern cutting.

Vita Gottlieb, by Vita Gottlieb, a Fine Art Graduate from Central Saint Martins set up her label in 2012. You could never tell but she has no formal fashion training and has instead taught herself.  Her Fashion Fringe S/S13 collection is entitled “The night garden” and is an explosion of cultures and textures coming together, with interesting silhouettes  and bright colours making her collection stand out. With amazing fabrics and shapes Gottlieb’s collection is truly unique and beautiful.

As the last show of S/S13 there was a sense of excitement in the air and as the show ended everyone waited with baited breath for the winner to be announced. Each designer was so different and each collection so powerful it would a hard decision to make.

This year Christopher Bailey, Chief Creative Office of Burberry was judge of the competition and presented the awards.

In the end he chose Haizhen Wang collection. As Wang came on to collect his trophy, made by jewellery designer Jessica McCormack, it was clear as he lifted the trophy over his head in triumph how ecstatic and happy he was to have won.

It was a lovely end to a great fashion week, with everyone looking forward into the future for new young talent and a whole new generation of designers.

JW Anderson Interview | London Fashion Week 2012

I went along to JW Anderson’s show last night in Bedford Square, and, boy, was I impressed. Legendary fashion writer Hilary Alexander was also there on the front row. We were also lucky enough to get an interview with JW Anderson.


Fashion week always approaches quickly, do you get excited?

It is an exciting week and it obviously gets a bit stressful but it’s all part of the process.  Everything always happens at the last minute!

Your new collection has just launched at Topshop, are you pleased with it?

I am super pleased with it.  The store layout is incredible and it was so exciting seeing hundreds of people turning up. It was amazing to see everything from blankets, jumpers to iPhone cases selling so quickly!

What is the key concept behind your Spring/Summer 2013 collection?

It centers around the idea of filling a white canvas which then becomes part of the garment. I have tried to combine extremely technical methods with a feeling of heritage.

What’s your secret to keeping cool and focused during fashion week?

Drinking lots of water and eating lots of fruit. I also try to keep my phone turned off, as it means I can really concentrate on the task in hand and keeps me from getting distracted.

What’s your secret to success?

Believe that it has already happened and a lot of hard work!

What are you looking forward to most at Fashion Week?

That minute before the show!

How do you keep fit / looking so good?

Drinking lots of water and turning off for 2 hours of the day

Why are you working with BRITA?

The is such an innovative product and is a cost effective alternative to drinking bottled water when you’re out and about.  I don’t think you should have to pay for water.  It should be everyone’s right, but it should taste good.

 

Luna Sky S/S13

Sunday night in the Westbury Hotel in Mayfair the catwalk was strewn with petals for the showing of Luna Skys S/S13 collection. Luna Sky is a London based designer who creates red carpet pieces for the “modern elegant women”

Never having heard of the designer before, I was interested to see what we would be treated to. In the description of the collections that awaited us on our seats, Swarovski crystals and sequins were mentioned and, having never been a fan of either I have to admit I was a little skeptical. However as the lights went down and the first model walked slowly down the catwalk i have to say I was impressed

Each dress was elegant, well made and feminine. From hem lines that scraped the knee, to full blow trains embroidered with petals and crystals each dress was red carpet worthy and reminiscent of American prom style dresses.

The models one at a time dream like floating down the catwalk their hair swept back, make up minimal and elegant. The colour pallet ranged fromsSoft blues to greens and yellows.

Finishing touches completed the look, for example matching floral pom pom shoes  added a  cute twist, and strings of crystals and delicate material flowers wrapped themselves around the models wrists.

A particular favourite was a one shoulder number in light blue which came down the the thigh, over the top of the skirt was a see through train which sashayed down the catwalk creating a young yet sophisticated look.

It was refreshing to see a catwalk show done slowly one model at the time and it felt as if the audience had been taken back to a private viewing in the 1950’s.

Afterward having a post show drink with a friend in a bar I ran into one of the models Chloe Woollcott who had come down from the Scottish Island of Rothesay to model for Luna Sky. She herself enjoyed modeling the collection and found them well fitting, (despite some of the dresses and heels being a little hard to walk down a catwalk in) . She stood out , looking lovely in the crowded bar with her 50’s vibe  hair and make up still in place from the show.

Luna Sky’s collection is defiantly a must for any young woman who wants to look and feel like a princess!

 

http://www.lunaskymoda.co.uk/

 

Photo: Alexander Cook

Accessories Showcase: Katie Rowland ‘Ishtar’ S/S13 and more

I headed over to the Canon Cinema at Somerset House on Monday to view the Fashion Films playing inside.

Mondays features was an accessories showcase staring Katie Rowlands ‘Ishtar’ S/S13 film. It was a short advert of a tattooed girl running through an old building, body adorned with the collection. The pieces were edgy and sexy with Egyptian style headdresses and armlets added something a little bit different.

Everything in the video I would have worn myself and Katie Rowland is defiantly a great brand for young women looking for some exiting, modern jewellery. However it would have been nice to see more as the film itself was quite short, so a trip to Liberty’s to check out the collection is defiantly in order!

http://www.katie-rowland.com/

 

Other designers showcasing short films were Zoe Lee, a British shoe designer of whose collection turned out to be cool, fun and funky. Previously tutored by Manolo Blanhik, in January 2012 this year she launched her own collection of luxury woman’s shoes. Zoe Lee clad feet were seen dancing and walking, each shoe having its own name and  personality. Really enjoyed watching this video as the brand was portrayed well and each shoe shown clearly. Will be purchasing a pair of Zoe Lee shoes as soon as S/S13 hits the shops!

http://zoelee.co.uk/home/

 

My favorite short film, which made me laugh was the Mawi “Heiress” video which marks a 10 year landmark for the London based brand.

The film shows a young woman sitting at a dinner table, dressed up as if for a party. Her butler brings over her first dish and she begins to eat.

The camera zooms in on what is thought to be a just a plate of soup, but it turns out a pair of earring is floating inside. Dish after dish is brought out, necklaces in the main course, bracelets in the jelly. The woman goes on the eat each piece of the collection ignoring the food entirely.

The Jewellery itself is luxurious but would be perfect for a younger woman as they were not too over the top or extravagant.  Each piece is modern and elegant and would be perfect for a dinner party or event.

Check out the past collections bellow

http://www.mawi.co.uk/

Although I much prefer a good old catwalk show, the Canon Cinema is a good place for small brands to get across their brand aesthetic and portray a mood or feel. It was also nice to sit in the dark away from the hustle and bustle of Somerset House and kick back and relax.

Fashions Finest | London Fashion Week 2012

Fashions Finest

 

The strong tribal theme last seen in AW12 was resurrected in the collections showcased by Europe’s emerging designers.

 

Creative graduates were given an opportunity to exhibit their latest projects at the Fashions Finest event that sidelined the main London Fashion Week schedule.

 

And as some of the female designers played it safe with key black trends, others attempted to make their collections stand out at The Westbury in Mayfair on Sunday.

 

Here’s a summary of each designer’s catwalk lines:

 

Blackpearl’s Secrets

Elegant and formal, the runway featured shimmering floor-length dresses and fitted men’s suits with tribal motifs etched on the pockets, elbows and lapels.

 

Blackpearl’s collection imitated the split-at-the-thigh gowns worn by Angelina Jolie and the hip-revealing dresses first adorned by Cheryl Cole.

 

But the contemporary was intertwined with the past, with square buckles nipping in at the waist and lace-up detail to the front and back of the dresses.

 

The catwalk line showed off the female form, with deep v-neck lines, high-rise slits and pieces which exposed the back.

 

Agatha Hambi

Black is the signature style of the Hambi designs as each model walked out to the chilled beats of the music.

 

Sticking to a black colour scheme with silver zips for all her pieces, Hambi’s collection was again floor-length but loose fitting against the frames of the models.

 

Halter necklines were prominent but there was little in the way of detail apart from a couple of dresses with feathers on the straps at the base of the neck.

 

To make each dress unique though, she incorporated different materials, such as netted, see-through textiles to the arms, shoulders and chest area.

 

Ella Bethel

A refreshing splash of colour delighted the audience in the next line-up by Bethel.

 

With the first model dressed in fruity reds, oranges and yellows in a skirt and blazer combination, the designs that followed were anything but consistent.

 

They were glam and cute with a look of ‘cocktails in the summer’.

 

All skirts were above the knee and Bethel experimented with materials, distinguishing the top and bottom halves of her projects.

 

There was also a hint of the tribal with delicate designs at the waist to the bolder print dresses. 

 

Tribal Gem

As the name suggests, Tribal Gem featured statement tribal motifs printed on blazers.

 

Models were dressed in black leggings so the eye was drawn to the bright designs on the jackets.

 

Sitting at the waist in either a straight or curved cut, the suits often featured a single button below the breasts, exposing the midriff.

 

The standout blazer was one that looked somewhat like a pillowcase – see the picture.

 

Mademoiselle Aglaia

Using black as the base of her designs, Aglaia’s collection was more experimental than her fellow designers.

 

The male models were dressed in a futuristic, street goth trend, while the women sported soft-flowing skirts, juxtaposed with crude short cut shorts and mini-skirts exposing the flesh.

 

A memorable piece was the half sequined, half feathered ball gown with a zig-zag design to the front which wouldn’t look too out of place on the high-street.

 

Established Beauxtique

Formal but with cheeky, playful undertones, the designs also incorporated the ongoing tribal theme.

 

Bold print jackets in deep yellows and reds were matched with elegant black skirts and dresses.

 

There were gasps as a model wearing a frilly dress and sheer turquoise bodice strutted down the catwalk.

 

Eva Cammarata

As a finalist in Britain’s Top Designer, Cammarata’s collection had to match her glowing introduction.

 

And she didn’t disappoint.

 

Unusually, her collection stuck to thick-threaded/woollen jumper dresses and belly tops teamed with tweed three-quarter length trousers.

 

Sticking to rusty gold and bronze colours, there was also a touch of S&M in her clothing.

 

Belt-like straps clung to the shoulders and hugged the area below the chest in a couple of her pieces.

 

And one of her more unusual designs included white lace teamed with a thick blue-layered woollen skirt. 

 

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Overall, Fashions Finest gave a good glimpse of the collections London Fashion Week followers can expect from future generations of designers. The model’s timing when entering the runway and the narration of the event may not have been perfectly executed, but their projects were promising