“Intricate nests of deliciousness”
On the eve of Monday, coincidentally when the moon was at its biggest and brightest this year, we were welcomed into the Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant HKK to sample its two moon cakes as part of the 15 course tasting menu.
Centred within the crux of bustling Shoreditch, Liverpool Street and Old Street, HKK presents itself modestly on Worship Street, but its contemporary décor invites business types and couples.
One thing to emphasise before I get on to the culinary journey – this isn’t just a dining experience, it’s an experience in itself.
You’ll be immersed in Chinese culture as you sip on room-temperature Sake and partake in a tea ceremony, yet the beautifully presented intricate nests of deliciousness are perfectly aligned with modern day cuisine.
You’ll need to leave all allergies and intolerances at the door as the 15 course menu tempts your taste buds with fresh vegetables (and flowers), sea food, fish, chicken, duck, lamb, beef and even flakes of gold.
Each plate presented a prefect mouthful and each was introduced by our server, Marco, with a flair of expertise and personal experience.
If you can’t remember the name of each dish (you will remember the flavour), don’t worry as towards the end of the meal, you’ll be handed a personal menu, including drinks, by the Manager, Mehmet, and Head Chef, Tong Chee Hwee.
The whelk salad and Shaoxing wine jelly started off our evening. The soft sweet jelly against the crunch of the cucumber and bitter flower infused effortlessly on the palette.
The roasted Poulet de Bresse, foie gras and mandarin confit presented an assortment of textures and tastes. The sharp citrus crunch of the mandarin flakes contrasted against the gamey foie gras. The tender chicken slithered on the tongue.
The Cherry wood roasted Peking duck was a far cry from the imitations in other restaurants. For this course, we were asked to come to the serving table in the middle of the restaurant where the chef cut the plump skin and moist cuts of duck from the bone. The skin was unlike anything I’d seen before. It reflected hues of red, orange and bronze under the lights. This was a real highlight as the meat was juicy, the hoi sin sauce delicate and the brown sugar added a creative twist to the traditional dish.
The Dim sum trilogy will leave your mouth dancing with flavours. The squidgy dumpling with fishy freshness and speckles of caviar contrasted with the spice of the chicken dumpling, soothed with a dash of soy sauce.
The Sugar snaps, lotus root and water chestnut cleansed the palette and acted as a reprieve from the previous fish and meat dishes. It was immaculately presented and the crunch of the sugar snaps contrasted with the milky texture of the smoky chestnut.
At this point, our Sommelier – Almudena – selected a 2013 bottle of Rosa dei Frati, Ca dei Frati, from Veneto, Italy and its fruity smell and taste accompanied the dish perfectly.
The moon cake itself – a watermelon cake and green tea sesame ball served with Da Hong Pau tea was sweet and succulent while the full bodied and smoky flavour of the tea soothed the richness of the cakes.
One of the highlights was the Seared Wagyu beef with Enoki mushrooms. Perfectly rare but oozing with meaty flavours, it was served on a crispy and salty pancake- like bowl. It was simply divine.
With three desserts coming up, I was excited. The raspberry and dark chocolate delice with cocoa nibs was thick, gooey and rich and the popping candy and flakes of gold were a unique taste experience.
We had a wonderful evening, the quality of the food and the presentation far exceeded our expectations, though we were not surprised to learn the Michelin star was awarded within the first year of the restaurant opening.
You’ll leave satiated, relaxed and cultured from the HKK experience.
See the website for more information: http://hkklondon.com/
