Londoner's LIfe 20 – By Phil Ryan

Ah the London January sales! This year they have an added importance in that according to figures they may be the last big spend before austerity 2012 is completely with us all and we have to start rooting through bins courtesy of George Osborne and his millionaire pals. However getting Londoners to give up conspicuous shopping is akin to getting fish to give up water so don’t hold your breath on the collapse of the high streets just yet. So after re-adjusting to the fact that the great vague days were finally over and I could leave the twilight zone days of Christmas behind me I headed into Town. My local Council have opted for the most pathetic decorations this year – basically about ten bare bulbs and some decaying green glitter from last year blu tacked to it – giving the entire high street the appearance of a walk in STD clinic with slightly less cheer. As usual for the holiday period I had lost track of which day it actually was – constantly checking my blackberry for re-assurance. Not that which day it was mattered technically. Everything shuts or opens incomprehensibly in London at this festive time especially our superb Transport network (this year I think they were trying a ‘use your legs replacement service’ approach). The surprise strikes from the unions seem eminently reasonable as they always are at this time EVERY SINGLE year without fail. Struggling by on a £40,000 plus salary with free travel must be a drag. And I do see that working on a day you don’t fancy is a bit of a pain. But didn’t they sign up for it when they started or are their working days a pick and mix job for them? Sweet huh? Usually I support unions but this lot are now officially beyond a greedy joke. Not I might add that I have any warm feelings to the bozos that allegedly run TFL (including I might add a lot of them on hundreds of thousands of pounds to run a lousy and uncoordinated service) That all said after just twenty three handy and in no way inconvenient changes by way of Cardiff I found myself at Bond Street tube.

A friend had invited me to meet for tea and somehow just to kill some time I found myself wandering through some shops on my way there. In a sale! Oh my god. House of Fraser looked like a scene from a Bosch painting. Grim faced loons squashed together like battery chickens rummaging through masses of ugly jumpers and shirts that are only in fashion during a total eclipse. Lines of ever grimly smiling staff carefully re-folding everything a matter of minutes later. The only thing missing were bare buttocked devils gouting fire from their eyes although I think I saw a few queuing up at the Calvin Klein concession. Still in shock I made the terrible decision to pop into HMV in Oxford Street where the staff had dropped all pretence at being anything but hacked off. Two wardrobes in shirts saying security kept bellowing “Don’t block the aisles it’s a safety hazard MOVE PLEASE MOVE it’s all about SAFETY” and glaringly waving their walkie talkies around like surrogate light sabres. The counters were manned by gimlet eyed dudes who at least seemed quite chilled when they took your money although they did all have a glassy rohipnol look about them. I suspect they’d been given something. But my favourites were the harassed looking shelf re-stockers. No sooner had they ripped open a box of whatever the manic punters gathered behind them were after they would hiss loudly “Please wait until we have put them onto the shelves” presumably muttering the words “you ravenous mindless scum” under their breath judging by their pained expressions. I saw a crowd six deep virtually slobbering as for some odd reason they waited patiently behind a makeshift nylon tape barrier as some Harry Potter boxed sets of DVD’s appeared. There was a surge for goodness sake. A surge. Some grinning HMV manager kept shouting only a few left. Which quite frankly just fanned the flames. But it clearly gave him a thrill. One punter was actually holding a wand and he looked to be about thirty four.

Making my escape I finally ended up in Selfridges which I think now holds the outright London award for amazingly surreal prices and stock next to Harrods. I looked at a tie which had been slashed from £300 to just £200. And then I ran my fingers over some shirts which would’ve made Stevie Wonder gag. Honestly, bright just doesn’t come close to describing their lime electric silk and leather splendour. But just who is wearing this mad stuff and where? Especially the latest in sartorial elegance the Swarofski crystal encrusted training shoes a snip at £700.00 a pair. They finally broke my wafer thin desire to stay and fight through hordes of slow moving crowds all in thrall to the great shop. Trying to make my way down the street was like taking part in some alternate universe flash mob comedy penguin shuffle. So I left. By taxi. Heading for Patisserie Valerie and some sanity. And as per usual I noted that everything I eventually bought wasn’t in the sale. Ho hum. But do Londoner’s feel the sales are a rip off. Probably. Would Londoners like all the visitors to the sales to naff off? Definitely. But do they worry themselves about such issues? No. It’s a London thing.

Vivienne Westwood’s official arrival in China

This week is the official launch of the Independent British brand Vivienne Westwood in China. Vivienne Westwood will host four major events, including opening Shanghai fashion week, to mark the brands prestigious arrival in one of the Worlds most important markets, China.

The beginning of this week saw the official opening of the Vivienne Westwood Grand Gateway Shanghai store. The new shop was toasted in style by Chinese VIP’s and press. To celebrate the brands arrival the official opening of Vivienne Westwood Shoes An Exhibition: 1973 – 2011 also took place this week. This is a unique exhibition which showcases over 40 years of design and is touring internationally. So far it has travelled from the UK to Russia then on to Beirut and Lebanon and is now at the Grand Gateway in Shanghai, China. The exhibition will showcase around 80 shoe designs and traces the exceptional success of Dame Westwood’s career to date. The exhibition is open to the public form the 19th – 23rd October 2011.

The grand arrival continued yesterday evening when Vivienne Westwood was the main guest at ‘Fashion Shanghai’, the official opening of Shanghai’s Fashion Week, at Shanghai Fashion Center. Vivienne Westwood showcased a selection of her designs from her Autumn- Winter 2011/12 and Spring-Summer 2012 collections.

As part of the launch Vivienne Westwood is also set to be a guest of honour at the ‘Can China Survive the World Green Economy?’ conference hosted in the prestigious University of Shanghai and will be voicing her environmental campaigns to reach an International audience. Also attending the conference will be journalists from Chinese publications, and members of international organizations based in China.

LONDON PROMOTES: New Rights For Models

Victoria Keon-Cohen has spent the last ten years working as a fashion model and knows both the highs and lows of the job. “I hated modelling for a long time because of the isolation. I was constantly gritting my teeth to get through the day. The industry is a far cry from what it was in the 1980s; there is now an oversupply of labour, and models are seen as disposable.”

Victoria describes the difficulties of the profession: “I was working in Milan and felt like I was a dog in the gutter half the time. I spent four hours every night in the gym just from loneliness. I had never been so unhappy in my life. The final pushing point came when I had a serious conflict with my agency, so I left.” After quitting the profession she moved back to London to study. Whilst there she met with Dunja Knezevic, a fellow model and friend, and they talked about their dissatisfaction at the industry.

“We exchanged stories of frustration. We’d both had great experiences as well but the inconsistencies were intolerable. One day a girl was dancing in the park for money to get a motel because her agency refuses to advance [money for] their own flat, the next day she’s in a luxurious villa in Spain” said Victoria.

Their conversation led them to consult Equity, the union for performers in the entertainment industry, and ask them to allow models to join. Towards the end of 2007 they succeeded in their request and the Equity Models Committee was formed.

One of the Committee’s biggest successes occurred last year when Equity, working alongside the British Fashion Council (BFC) as part of the Model Programme, introduced the first ever catwalk contract for London Fashion Week, setting out minimum rates of pay, private changing areas, breaks and refreshments. It also included a clause stating that nudity or semi-nudity must be agreed in advance, helping younger and more vulnerable models avoid being pressured into agreeing work that makes them uncomfortable.

This year Victoria, Dunja and the rest of the committee are focusing on a campaign called London Promotes in association with the BFC and the Model Programme. The campaign will include a viral video due to be shown on fashion blogs, social networking sites and both the BFC and Equity websites. The name highlights the important aspects of the campaign:

Privacy: care and backstage code of conduct.

Rates: ensures payment at least equal to the Model Programme recommended minimums.

Opportunities: for models to obtain prestigious British and international campaigns.

Model Programme: an alliance of the AMA, BFC and the Greater London Authority (GLA) working together for models’ welfare.

Of Age: Only models over 16 walking on the London Fashion Week catwalks.

Terms: conditions of employment covered by the Model Programme’s minimum terms.

Equity: joining the Union for models offers the right to Union protection.

Sanctuary: The Models Sanctuary provides a safe haven for models working during London Fashion Week.

One of the key benefits of union representation for models is legal support in case of any dispute with an agency or client, as well as facial insurance in case of accident. Dunja gives this advice to models starting out in the industry: “Join the union before you have an issue at work because Equity cannot help with any problems you may have had before becoming a member.”

She goes to give a realistic view of the job: “It’s nothing like what you would expect so treat it as the serious business that it is. Forget the glamour and exorbitant cheques. But expect an incredible experience of travel and making connections that you never would have made otherwise.”

This latest campaign looks set to change the fashion industry for the better once again at London Fashion Week. As Victoria explains, “London Promotes is looking to the future for an industry built on respect and support, with opportunities and a strong network of collaboration between Equity, the Models Programme and the Mayor’s office [GLA]. It’s a massive turning point for an industry where no one is just out for themselves anymore; it acknowledges that we have to work together for a stronger workplace for us all.”

Alexa Brown is an actress and model and a member of the Equity Model’s Committee. www.alexabrown.co.uk

This article was previously published in the September issue of Style Capital magazine.

Made In Chelsea Stars Ollie Locke and Chloe Green Split Up.

Made In Chelsea stars Chloe Green and Ollie Locke have split up.

Chloe Green joined the reality TV show this month as Ollie’s girlfriend and has said that the relationship could not survive the media spotlight.

The daughter of Topshop owner Sir Philip Green said: “We have split. It was nothing to do with Ollie being bisexual; I was fine with it and so was Dad. He met Ollie and thought he was a really nice guy.”

She also said that “World War 3 nearly broke out” a few times between her and Ollie’s ex-girlfriend Gabriella Ellis.

“It’s fair to say there were some awkward moments and World War 3 nearly broke out when we watched the screening of the first episode.”

However, the two seem to have become friends, Ellis went on to tell GLAMOUR.com: “Yeah, we’re really close friends actually. In the past kind of week or two, we’ve become really close. The show airs nearly a month after we’ve filmed the episode, so now we’ve become really, really close, but you’ll see it happen.”

London Fashion Week Highlights | Fashion Shenzhen

One of my London Fashion Week highlights was Fashion Shenzhen on 19th of September.

Shenzhen, Guangdong province, is not only the nation’s garment capital, with 3,000 garment manufacturers employing nearly 500,000 people, but also home to some world famous designers.

It was Fashion Shenzhen’s fourth appearance at London Fashion week, It was organized by the Shenzhen Garment Industry Association. I love the music, the clothes and the atmosphere.

Chinese Ambassador to the UK Liu Xiaoming attended and said that Shenzhen is actually not just a garment manufacturing base, but “well-positioned to be China’s fashion and creative capital”.

Xie Haiping and Deng Hao were the two designers at Monday’s catwalk at Vauxhall Fashion Scout in the Freemason’s Hall.

A one minute video of the highlights are below.

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout founder, John Walford said of the show: “It really is rewarding to see how this relationship has gone from strength to strength.

“This new exciting student exchange, Chinese collections in the UK and UK collections in China, becomes possible for the first time with the opening of the Shenzhen Fashion School next year,”

London Fashion Week 2011: EMESHA

Emesha Nagy is one of Frost’s favorite designers, her clothes are beautiful and eco-friendly. She has worked with Vivienne Westwood and Jasper Conran, and now is on the fourth of her own collection.

EMESHA’s mission is to source new eco-friendly fabrics and to produce quality garments that are sustainable in both manufacture and design, without sacrificing style.

EMESHA is fully committed to environmental and social responsibilities. The label was created using only natural, therefore biodegradable and recycled fabrics, which are free of harmful AZO dyes. The fabrics used are mainly sourced in the UK or come from end-of-line “upcycled” industry waste and so some of garments are available in a limited edition.

The EMESHA label is concerned with paying fair wages to the skilled workers who work hard to create the garments. “Having Hungarian roots, I have been devastated to see the decline of the apparel industry in Hungary over the past few years. When new countries joined the EU in 2007, many of the prominent fashion houses moved their production lines further east where costs were lower. This had a devastating effect on the local economy leaving many skilled workers
unemployed forcing those who remained in the industry to work long hours and lower their salary expectations to keep their jobs. Appreciating the skill and talent of these workers, I chose my homeland for the production of my collections. I am building my company to follow sustainable and ethical principles I am committed to fair wage production to reverse the downward economic spiral, and to draw attention to a huge issue within the European Union. This does not only happen in the fashion industry, and is visible in many other European countries. However fashion is what I know and this is where I can make a change.”

A vegetarian since her early teens, Emesha doesn’t use leather or fur in her designs.

London Fashion Week | Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring- Summer 2012

On 18th September 2011 Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label Spring- Summer 2012 catwalk show took place at the historical Smithfields Market, London.

The collection was inspired by a Degas Painting of young girls watching Spartans exercising and the ancient games- with classic cuts and tailoring all taken from the Vivienne Westwood archive collections. The chalk patterns from the painting influenced the strong silver palate through the collection with the ancient look somehow transforming into a space age Barbarella which was also reflected in the hair and make-up. Tropical wool from our classics and Price of Wales checks in cotton created sharp smart suiting looks.

The show also introduced the Rainforest charity, Cool Earth, and a campaign that is very close to Vivienne’s heart- a plan to save the most vulnerable Rainforest areas by 2020.

“Cool Earth has a plan to save the Rainforest.

If we don’t save the Rainforest- Forget it!

First we saved the Rainforest.

Will they ever know we saved the planet?”

Vivienne Westwood

The Spring/Summer 2012 Red Label Fashion Show also marked the launch of an ongoing partnership between Vivienne Westwood and Sony music, enabled with the support of the British Fashion Councils- Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation. Communicating an important message about our world’s rainforests, a limited number of Vivienne Westwood designed MP3 players, a badge that plays music, were distributed to guests at the show containing a short recording from Vivienne herself and an excerpt from Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro supplied by Sony Music. This limited edition Playbutton acts as a teaser for a more extensive commercial collection to be launched in stores November/December 2011. The Playbutton is an innovative mix-tape of music that doubles up as a fun accessory. With all the typical functionality of a mini MP3 player, the Playbutton pairs the concept of a great album with the classic button for the perfect wearable way to listen to music. The Playbutton is coming soon to Vivienne Westwood stores worldwide and a select number of boutiques.

Sitting front row alongside the fashion royalty were celebrities Kelis, Pamela Anderson, Erin O’Conner, Tracey Emin, Jaquetta Wheeler, Portia Freeman, Zara Martin, Eliza Doolittle, Paloma Faith, and Sunday Girl.

Kelis (fresh from her fuax pas of accusing London of being a ‘racist’ city when she was actually insulted in Spain) chose to wear a silver blouse with a printed pencil skirt from the Autumn-Winter 2011 Gold Label collection.

Erin O’Connor chose to wear a blue wool suit with a light blue cotton shirt from the Red Label Autumn-Winter 2011 collection with silver sequin wedge shoes from the Autumn-Winter 2011 Gold Label collection.

Paloma Faith wore a Gerent sienna skirt with a Holes vest and Hunter arm warmers with sequin silver knee-high boots from the Autumn-Winter 2011 Gold Label collection.

London Fashion Week 2011| Bolshie | Esprit | Paul Costello | Leutton Postle

London Fashion Week 2011| Bolshie |Esprit |Paul Costello | Leutton Postle

I love London Fashion Week, so when my postman handed me a parcel which had lots of invites in an Outnet bag I got very excited. I headed to Somerset house wearing black (standard), flats (controversial) and my camera (which breaks!). Here is my run down so far.

Bolshie

 

Rhiannon Jones presents her first LFW show and gets Bolshie. The 19-year-old couldn’t be cooler, her show was on the top floor of a Shoreditch car park.

 

Rhiannon is self-taught and her ‘Romantic Poverty’, show featured brash prints and had MIC Righteous rapping ‘It’s going get Nasty!’. She also had good goody bags, not that journalists care about that type of thing…ahem.

Paul Costello

 

Paul officially opened Fashion Week again this year, his collection was feminine, flirty. Had lots of ruffles, puff sleeves, voluminous dresses and flowing fabrics. Great colours of coral, pink and green. The collection was inspired by the 1962 Hollywood Classic ‘What Ever Happened to Baby Jane’

Leutton Postle

I arrived early to the Freemasons’ Hall (Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s) and was informed that they were running an hour late. However, the show was worth it. The Vauxhall Fashion Scout merit award is an internationally recognised launch pad for the most innovative designers, and Leutton Postle received, and deserved it. They graduated from Central Saint Martins, design duo Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle then showcased their debut collection as part of the VFS merit award. They have a beautiful couture knitwear collection.

The collection is a colourful array of patterns, with patchwork, fringing, mesh skirts, and multicoloured knitwear. Garments hung loosely over shoulders. Very original.

RCA & Esprit

 

I was overjoyed when I got my bright pink Esprit invite, and even more overjoyed when I arrived, it was the best London Fashion event so far this week. I had a spinach and beetroot cocktail (surprisingly nice), a Russian Standard (very strong!), design my own T-shirt and got the designer Kevin Lyons to sign it. The bonus is, Lyon’s likes my T-shirt. I also coloured it in, have a boogie, eat amazing canapés and check out their collection. Everyone is nice and having fun. Tops stars. They are big on wool and their collection is fun, fashionable and original. Frost loves.

 

I also went to the Esthetica Fashion Champagne Brunch, BFC Chairman Harold Tillman CBE and Gregory Barker, Minister of State Department for Energy and Climate Change were there. It was a wonderful event.

Keep coming to Frost for more London Fashion Week news and reviews, and follow us on Twitter at @Frostmag or me at @Balavage