Silk – an Asian restaurant in an old courthouse
Silk Restaurant at the Courthouse Hotel, Marlborough Street, London
Just across the road from Liberty’s – just a few yards from Oxford Circus – is a rather squat stone building. Until 10 years ago it was Marlborough Street Magistrates Court, where a large number of ne’er do wells, including Johnny Rotten, Oscar Wilde and Mick Jagger faced the might of British justice.
These days it has become one of the trendiest boutique hotels in central London. And in the heart of the building – in what used to be the main courtroom, is Silk restaurant – a pan-asian eatery that brings together flavours from India, Thailand and Sri Lanka. So, keen to try something novel, I took my wife, Carol, there for dinner.
The restaurant is unusual. You certainly don’t feel that you are just around the corner to Topshop. The entire dining area is still lined with the court’s original oak panelling. Part of the joy of eating here is to work out exactly where the various participants of the old courtroom would have sat. The magistrates’ bench is now a sort of servery area. The dock – for the accused – has been left intact. We were positioned just below the bench in an area that would once have been occupied by a stenographer and the clerk of the court and the food emerges from what would once have been the magistrates’ changing room.
Once we’d dealt with the legal niceties, we perused the menu. One of the problems of Asian food in Britain is that it all tastes the same. Restaurants cook the same dishes – the kormas, the bhunas, the tandoori masalas – with the same spices – probably bought at the same wholesalers. I suppose this is in response to popular demand, but it doesn’t make for an exciting culinary experience.
Char grilled prawns with yoghurt and mint and all the trimmings
Silk is quite different. The menu, I’m glad to say is refreshingly small. This means that the food is stunningly fresh. Starters are unusual. Carol had the Neua Prik Kiew Wan Sod Vollappa (yes, that really is the name of the dish!), which turns out to be strips of beef marinated in green curry. It is strong, it is spicy, it is soft and tastes of fish and soy and basil. We loved it.
I had a Silk Starter platter with scallops and honey glazed chicken and lamb sheekh kebab. The scallops were delightful – soft and firm with a hint of sweetness – and kebabs had a real tang. For main meal we went for the fish. Carol had masala fried cod loin with tomato coconut chilli curry and steamed rice. I went for the tiger prawns with quinoa, mango and cherry tomato salsa. Now, I’m a bit of an expert on tiger prawns and these were stunners. Firm, not overcooked –straight off the griddle and onto the plate.
The side dishes were brilliant. The sugar snap peas were seriously snappy. And the nan bread was incredibly fresh. I’d come back again just for the bread.
The food was simple and the sauces were divine. Yoghurt and mint with the lamb, mango and cherry with the prawns: there was nothing very clever or fancy, but lovely bright flavours. And the portions were reasonably sized – not tiny but not too excessive. This is not the place for a blow out meal but when we left we were pleasantly full.
With a bottle of pinot grigio and a delightful mango creme brûlée for dessert, the bill came to around £100 for two, which seemed reasonable. On the way out we stopped for a drink in the bar. The bar is based in the area that formerly housed the cells. The cell doors are still there and the cells still have the original toilets – although they are not in use – except as seats. It’s one of the most interesting and venues in central London and if you want to give a companion an unusual dining experience it’s almost unbeatable.
